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Fundy rising
Cities and towns along the Fundy Trail Parkway are banding together to prioritize community and the environment as they share their magical landscape with the world
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Traditionally, roads were created to get travellers from point A to point B. Some of these roads, like Alberta’s Bow Valley Parkway and B.C.’s Coastal Circuit Route, have scenic stretches, causing even the most apathetic road trippers to be impressed. However, you rarely find a coastal road purposely constructed for drivers, cyclists, riders and passengers to safely pull over, picnic, and ogle at the view.
Built over 25 years (at a cost of $100 million), is New Brunswick’s Fundy Trail Parkway, a 30-kilometre strip of asphalt bliss meandering along the cliffs and beaches in Fundy Trail Provincial Park.
Overlooking the intense tidal shifts of the Bay of Fundy, the Parkway exists thanks to the ambitious vision of the late Mitchell Franklin, a Saint John entrepreneur who fell head-over-heels in love with the region. Franklin long campaigned to transform the rugged Bay of Fundy coastline into a world-class outdoor destination. With an accessible road to link the beaches, waterfalls and viewpoints, it could also become, in his words, a “gold mine” for New Brunswick tourism.
In 1994, Mitchell finally convinced New Brunswick’s then-Premier Frank McKenna to put shovels in the ground. Construction began on a winding coastal track to connect a West Gate in St Martins with an East Gate near Sussex. It would also include an additional paved link to attract visitors from the Hopewell Rocks, the province’s biggest tourist attraction. In 2006, Franklin died at age 92, but he lived long enough to finally see part of his dream become reality, and his legacy remains on full display.
The connector road between Alma and the West Gate rolls through hilly, tree-lined forest, occasionally offering tantalizing views of the world’s highest tides. It’s a lovely drive in itself, but the Fundy Trail Parkway only officially kicks in when you reach the gates of Fundy Trail Provincial Park, requiring a modest entrance fee. It’s well worth it: ocean roads don’t usually have 21 well-signed pullovers to access sweeping cliffside viewpoints easily. Refreshingly, there are no kiosks selling overpriced food or souvenirs along the way, keeping the experience authentically natural and laced with discovery. Plenty of picnic benches invite visitors to spend time appreciating the world’s highest tides and the sweeping views of cliffs, beaches, and Nova Scotia across the bay.
It used to take four hours to hike to Walton Glen Gorge, “the Grand Canyon of the New Brunswick,” a 300-metre wide, 500-million-year-old canyon with a 150-metre drop and cascading waterfall. It’s now an easy 20-minute walk from a parkway parking lot to a wooden observation deck, suitable for kids and active grandparents (my mom and eight-year-old joined me for the walk). Experienced hikers will want to look into the challenging 2.4-kilometre-long Eye of the Needle Trail that descends steeply to the bottom of the canyon. From the top, we decided to christen the place Walton Glen Gorge-ous.
The viewpoint you’ll see at Fox Rock is what finally convinced Frank McKenna, a popular provincial premier, to give the construction greenlight. Franklin was showing off the bay from his nearby property, and a beautiful day with a more beautiful view took care of the rest. Today, Fox Point is located just one kilometre from the West Gate. Fownes Head, Cranberry Brook, Martin Head, Melvin Beach- the sign-posted lookouts are all stunning, with generous parking pullouts that come thick and fast along the road. Driving straight through, it will take less than an hour to complete the parkway, but you can easily spend the day stopping for walking trails, beaches, and observation decks. The 40 km/hr speed limit wants you to take your time.
Long Beach has the Bay of Fundy’s most expansive horizontal beach (about two kilometres at low tide) with a sandy section for tanning and a ‘discovery’ beach for kids to search the ocean floor for treasures. Free beach toys, information displays, and artifacts are in the park kiosk by the parking lot. Fuller Falls is the most accessible waterfall, with a short but steep wooden staircase down to a forested viewing platform. Big Salmon River is another popular stop for its suspension bridge, interpretive centre, and refreshing swims in a creek with water so clean you can drink it.
The Fundy Trail’s gates are open from mid-May to mid-October, providing access to the 2,559-hectare Fundy Trail Provincial Park, as well as the trailhead for the challenging Fundy Footpath hike. The park also forms part of UNESCO’s Fundy Biosphere Reserve and the Stonehammer Global Geopark. Setting a new benchmark for scenic roads around the world, the entire experience is pristine, rugged and uncommercialized. Mitchell Franklin’s ambitious dream has become a must-do reality for locals and visitors to New Brunswick, and you can thank him when crossing the Mitchell Franklin Bridge. Mitchell’s ashes were scattered into the foundation cement of his namesake crossing to honour his memory.
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