Travel

The Essential Itinerary: Springtime in Banff, Alberta

Four siblings take to the Rockies for a pre-summer adventure featuring glaciers, caves, mountains and more

  • Feb 05, 2025
  • 3,218 words
  • 13 minutes
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“Yeah, I could live here,” my brother Oliver says after just two hours in Lake Louise. It’s raining and a bit chilly (it is spring, of course). Still, our spirits are high after a day walking the Athabasca Glacier, driving the iconic Icefields Parkway, impromptu cold plunges in Bow Lake and a decent amount of sibling banter.   

My three brothers and I have been in Banff for nearly a week and have collectively agreed it is one of the most scenic places in Canada we’ve ever been. We all grew up in downtown Toronto, accustomed to rush-hour traffic, weekends spent at busy malls and city life’s usual hustle and bustle. But despite our upbringing in Canada’s most populated city, we all have a strong desire for adventure, the outdoors and adrenaline.

Visiting Banff National Park in the spring allows visitors to experience various climates as the weather changes.
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In the spring, Banff still experiences some days of heavy snowfall mixed with days of sun and warmer temperatures.
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As the oldest (and only girl), my place in the sibling hierarchy was often the role of the leader. But now, we are all in our 20s, with my three younger brothers surpassing me in height and strength, making everything from getting up the mountain first to staying in the freezing water the longest fair game. So, what happens when you put four adventure-seeking, competitive siblings together in one of Canada’s most outdoorsy and scenic places? The answer: an epic adventure.

Downtown Banff in the spring is far less crowded than the high seasons between June and August for summer tourism and from December to March for winter visits.
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Renowned for its jewel-coloured glacial lakes, Rocky Mountain peaks, and abundant opportunities for outdoor recreation, Banff, Alta., is Canada’s first National Park and part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks UNESCO World Heritage Site. From world-class skiing and dogsledding in the winter to high-elevation hikes and paddleboarding in the summer, Banff boasts year-round activities for visitors of all ages. However, Banff and its surrounding areas can get busy, with more than four million visitors yearly. So, to escape the crowds and still experience the area’s snowy peaks and natural beauty, we visited Banff during the spring, right before the crowds began to pick up.

In April and May, iconic bodies of water like Lake Louise, Bow River, and Moraine Lake start to thaw and flow again, and more hiking trails become available. Simultaneously, wildlife emerges from hibernation, and popular activities like the Columbia Icefields Adventure and the famous glass-floored skywalk open. Although this shoulder season may not have the warmest weather or access to the highest peaks, Banff in the spring allows visitors to truly experience this wilderness icon of Canada without waiting in line for a view.

DAY ONE

8 a.m. | Fuel your adventure

The key to a good day of adventuring starts with an adequate amount of fuel, in this case, carbs. As an early riser, I take to the streets of Banff before my brothers wake up. I wander down the main street, Banff Avenue, desperately searching for coffee. I pass quaint shops and restaurants, then stumble upon Wild Flour Bakery in the heart of town. I part the beaded curtain decorating the front door and am immediately hit with the smell of fresh bread and an array of pastries, sandwiches and cold-pressed juices. The wall of artisan bread catches my eye as I scan the labels featuring items from classic sourdough and baguettes to cranberry walnut and cinnamon raisin. 

Since the late 1800s, Wild Flour has been creating homemade comfort food incorporating local ingredients like fruit, cheese, nuts and seeds while also providing hearty breakfasts, soups, sandwiches and more. To tide myself over, I opt for just a coffee, knowing I will be dragging my brothers back shortly after. Soon enough, once I wake the boys up in the most sisterly way possible (abruptly opening curtains and jumping on the bed), we find ourselves back at Wild Flour. We stock up on focaccia sandwiches for later in the day, then chow down on breakfast. I go for the house-made granola with yogurt and berry compote while guzzling down my second coffee of the day, while the boys opt for breakfast sandwiches made with free-range eggs.

Located in the heart of Banff, Wild Flour Bakery offers baked goods made fresh every morning.
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The reasonably priced cafe specialized in artisan breads and also has several vegan options.
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11 a.m. | Banff from below

“Who wants to try a real squeeze?” asks Jaimie McMahon, our guide with Canmore Cave Tours. I shine my headlamp towards the small, human-sized hole McMahon is pointing towards and think, how is someone supposed to get through that? We are 256 metres below the Earth’s surface and have spent nearly an hour underground. I turn to my brother Simon. “Are you going to do it?” I ask. Without hesitation, he says, “yes.” So, of course, that means I need to as well. 

Canmore Cave Tours has operated since 1992 and offers guided tours of Rat’s Nest Cave, Canada’s fourth-largest cave system. Located on Grotto Mountain, this unforgettable spelunking adventure features soda straws (tiny stalactites), animal bones, and hundred-year-old pictographs indicating a place of significance for First Nations people. During this Explorer Tour, which operates year-round, participants spend approximately two and a half hours in the cave while expert guides educate them on the history and rock formations. For anyone looking to step out of their comfort zone and experience one of Banff’s lesser-known adventures under the mountains, this challenge is for you.

Cavers with Canmore Cave Tours descend deeper into Rat's Nest Cave.
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One of the several small holes cavers can enter to explore other areas of Rat's Nest Cave.
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6 p.m. | Wander through downtown Banff 

Nestled in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, Banff is a vibrant, picturesque town framed by mountain vistas and some of the country’s best hiking trails. But wandering through Banff’s downtown core is a great way to decompress after a long day.

“I think I’m going to go for the brownie explosion,” says Simon as the four of us wait in the lineup of COWS Ice Cream. The smell of freshly baked waffle cones makes my mouth water as I scan the menu of ice cream flavours. I opt for cowconut cream pie and Nanaimoo bar. The four of us take our ice cream outside and wander down Banff Avenue, the main road spanning from one end of the town to the other. We make our way in and out of stores and pick up a fresh can of bear spray for the next few days of hiking (an essential item to have during the spring season). 

We continue wandering through town until we find ourselves at Bow Falls, a must-see spot when visiting Banff. Stopping to take pictures, we admire the view, each of us amazed by the natural scenery just minutes from Banff Avenue.

A selection of ice creams from COWS.
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One of the best aspects of downtown Banff is the impeccable views of the nearby mountains.
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DAY TWO

7 a.m. | Take a hike 

What better way to start the day than with a quick 2.7-mile out-and-back hike before 8 a.m.? While my brothers take advantage of the incredibly comfortable beds at The Mount Royal Hotel, I opt for a hike before the hike, making my way up Tunnel Mountain. The walk took about an hour and a half, but it was a nice way to take the morning peace. At the top, I was utterly alone. I spent a few moments taking in the panoramic view of Banff below, complete with fog rolling in through the empty streets.  

Later in the day, the four of us embarked on a longer hike through the Pipestone Valley, taking on the Pipestone Loop. In the winter, this 8-mile loop makes a perfect cross-country ski trail. “Guys, look here,” my brother Ben says as we reach a particularly wet section of the trail. I turn to face him, and he immediately snaps a picture of Oliver, Simon, and me ankle-deep in a marsh. “You could have at least warned me,” I say. “I like candids,” he responds. We continue taking landscape pictures with picturesque mountain backdrops, adding and removing layers as the weather goes from warm, clear blue skies to cold, rainy, and warm again. One thing any hiker must know when taking on a springtime hike in Banff is that layers are essential.

The view overlooking Banff from the top of Tunnel Mountain.
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In the spring, many of Banff's trails are in great condition, while the mild temperatures often mean that hikes won't be too hot or too cold.
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1 p.m. | Banff from above

Just five minutes from the town of Banff is Sulphur Mountain (Mînî Rhuwîn), the location for the iconic Banff Sightseeing Gondola. For any traveller looking for the ultimate alpine views, this attraction in the heart of the Canadian Rockies is not to be missed. As the four of us pull into the parking lot, we pass by a herd of elk, unphased, as we stop for a minute (maintaining a safe distance) to snap a few pictures. Fewer tourists during the spring mean minimal lineups, so we quickly go into the gondola and up the mountain for the eight-minute ride

From the boardwalk at the summit, we take in the 360-degree views featuring six different mountain ranges before visiting the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station, a National Historic Site of Canada. “It might be time to head inside,” I say to my brothers as I notice dark clouds moving quickly from the horizon. Within minutes, we find ourselves amid a minor snowstorm, seeking shelter in the Above Banff interpretive centre. Inside, we explore the self-guided state-of-the-art exhibit, learning about the wildlife and topography of the area. “Okay, no cheating,” I say, pointing to the table hosting various piles of fake animal dung. We test our knowledge by identifying animal poop and footprints before coming face-to-face with a life-size replica of a grizzly bear. I’m glad we have bear spray, I think to myself.

A panoramic vista of Banff National Park from the Banff Gondola Deck at the summit of Sulphur Mountain.
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Overlooking Banff National Park while in the gondola on the way to the summit of Sulphur Mountain.
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6 p.m. | Refuel

Food is fuel, especially topping 20-thousand plus steps a day. But deciding where to eat when Banff boasts multiple excellent award-winning restaurants is the real challenge. During our week-long stay, we tackle several locations, sampling various dishes from elk and kale pizza at Three Bears to delectable tacos on Taco Tuesday on the patio of Magpie & Stump. The real winner, however, was The Canadian Brewhouse.

“I need somewhere to watch the game,” says Oliver jokingly (but also seriously) as the only real hockey fan among us. Coincidentally, we are visiting Banff during the 2024 Centennial Cup when the Edmonton Oilers were set to compete against the Vancouver Canucks. We are graciously seated with a clear view of a screen and a gorgeous view of the mountains — we are all happy. Every time a team scores, sirens go from the ceiling of The Canadian Brewhouse and the entire restaurant cheers (or boos). Various burgers, sandwiches, crinkle-cut fries and salads are ordered by our table, followed by large portions of chocolate fudge cake and ice cream, all devoured except for the lemon wedge of a Caesar salad.

DAY THREE

9 a.m. | Johnston Canyon

Before departing for Johnston Canyon on our way to Lake Louise, hotel staff warned us about the crowds and advised us to arrive early to secure a parking spot. But with so much to see between Banff and Lake Louise along the Bow Valley Parkway, we did not come early… We stopped at nearly every viewpoint, taking many pictures and enjoying the scenery. However, despite taking our sweet time to arrive, there were, in fact, several spots available between the buses of tourists — thank goodness for shoulder season. 

Johnston Canyon is arguably one of the most popular hikes in Banff. It is accessible year-round, with waterfalls, paved trails, and minimal elevation gain. We go to Lower Falls, where we encounter our first and only lineup, waiting for the perfect spot to view the blue water flowing from above. “Do you think it’s worth the wait?” asks Simon. I wonder, but we are all determined to see as much as possible. Watching the line diminish quickly, we get in the queue with our cameras ready. When our turn is up, we duck under a small opening leading to a ledge overlooking the creek, amazed by how close we are while splashed by the falls. 

Carved naturally over thousands of years, Johnston Canyon features several pools and waterfalls mixed between observation points and tunnels. As we go through the canyon, I scan the cliff ledges for black swifts, an endangered bird with unique nesting sites. Several years ago, as an intern for Canadian Geographic, I wrote about the rebound of black swifts in Johnson Canyon and explained the black swift’s history in the area to my brothers. It was an incredible experience to see the site in person.

Walking along the dedicated footpaths through Johnston Canyon.
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Upper Falls in Johnston Canyon.
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Noon | World’s best road trip

Every summer growing up, my brothers and I would pack ourselves into our family’s Honda Odyssey and drive 12 hours to Quebec. We would fight over who was responsible for music and snacks and when to take a bathroom break. A decade and a half later, this didn’t feel much different, except the ride from Banff to the Columbia Icefields was only three hours, and the drive along the Icefields Parkway is easily one of the best road trips in Canada. 

Open year-round, the double-lane Icefields Parkways spans 144 miles, passing through sweeping valleys set amongst lush forests and mountain peaks. Around every corner is another jaw-dropping view, from the glacier-fed Peyto Lake to the famous Big Hill and Big Bend, a hairpin turn that wraps around a circle. 

“Okay, we’re stopping again,” I say to my brothers as I veer our rental car to the side of the road. I can sense them rolling their eyes and annoyed with my frequent stops. “I can’t take pictures while driving. I am prioritizing your safety,” I say sarcastically. Even though there is light rain, we all get out of the car (again) and start snapping pictures of the landscape from the Bow Valley viewpoint. 

We are halfway between Banff and our destination, with plenty of time to spare. “I am going for a dip,” Ben declares with confidence. Without hesitation, Oliver and Simon follow, stripping down to their boxers and heading for the shore of Bow Lake, which still has a thin layer of ice. As a frequent cold plunger, getting into freezing water is not foreign to me, but I wimp out and observe from the “warmth” of the shore. After less than 30 seconds in the freezing water, the boys run back to the car, laughing and shivering as they shout at me to turn the heat up.

Some of the amazing views out the car window while driving around Banff to Lake Louise.
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A friendly visitor looking for snacks during a quick pit stop (although cute, please don't feed wildlife).
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3 p.m. | Walk on a glacier

Canada has many of the world’s glaciers, but seeing a glacier is not enough for some. For those interested in getting up close and personal with ancient ice, the Colombia Icefield Adventure is for you.  

After finally arriving at the Colombia Icefield following the Icefields Parkway, the four of us make our way to the Glacier Discovery Centre, where we wait for our turn to board the shuttle that will take us to our designated Ice Explorer (a massive vehicle made for glacier exploration). The slow but steady ride takes us down the steepest commercial road in North America before finally arriving at the Athabasca Glacier, where we get out and explore. “If you put your face in the water, you’ll get a glacial facial,” our guide says jokingly. Ben looks at me with an expression that says, are you going to do it? I don’t dunk my face in, but I scoop some water up and take a sip, just to say I did. We have some time to walk around, take pictures and admire our surroundings – all around us are snowy peaks without a building in sight.

After our time on the Athabasca Glacier, we head to the iconic Colombia Icefield Skywalk overlooking the Sunwapta Valley. Suspended 280 meters in the air, the glass-floored walkway is built directly into the bedrock cliffs, constructed using steel, glass and wood in 2014. Staff and guides positioned along the U-shaped structure continuously assure visitors that bulletproof glass panels are not likely to break. “Can I jump?” Simon asks one of the guides. “You can,” he responds with a smirk. Simon looks around and starts bouncing up and down. A weary visitor looks over with concern as the guide reassures them that Simon’s bouncing will not harm them. Then, the guide points up towards the cliffs. “Do you see the mountain goat?” he says. We look up at the tree-covered rock face, and sure enough, we see a large white mountain goat grazing on the side of the cliff. I wave Oliver and Ben over, but they are too mesmerized by the jaw-dropping view. 

The Ice Explorers take guests across the Athabasca Glacier during the Colombia Icefields Adventure.
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The view overlooking the Sunwapta Valley from the iconic Colombia Icefield Skywalk.
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6 p.m. | Postcard-perfect scenery 

“We need at least one photo together,” I say to my brothers as we peer out over a partially frozen Lake Louise. After Moraine Lake, the glacial turquoise water of Lake Louise, set amidst a mountain backdrop, is perhaps one of the most photographed landscapes in Canada. Just a 45-minute drive east of Banff, Lake Louise is a must-visit spot on any Banff itinerary, and spring is a great time to go as the crowds are minimal.  

In the summer, canoes can be rented from the Boathouse in Lake Louise, while winter offers cross-country skiing, ice climbing and even an outdoor skating rink. We opt for a rather slushy and slippery hike to Fairview Lookout, a 1.4-mile out-and-back hike with a postcard-perfect view of the iconic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. With only 156 metres of elevation gain, the hike is relatively easy, but adding ice adds an extra challenge. The surrounding area of Lake Lousie also offers several hikes beginning at the lakefront, taking hikers along the shoreline, past waterfalls and through lush forests. And once hikers feel they have done enough exploring, visiting the Fairmont for a cup of hot chocolate and a croissant is the perfect mid-day pick-me-up. 

My brothers and I posing for the mandatory photograph in front of Lake Louise.
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Often overlooked, Lake Louise Village is much smaller and quieter than the town of Banff but still has plenty to offer. As a well-maintained adventure hub, this tiny hamlet boasts several hiking trails with quick access to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. We take advantage of some downtime after checking into the Lake Louise Inn. I stroll along the Bow River while my brothers explore, and we reconvene for food. Ben and Oliver opt for bison burgers from The Station Restaurant, while Simon and I pick up falafels and sticky toffee pudding cake from Bill Peyto’s Cafe.

Admiring the snowy landscape of Lake Louise is a quintessential Canadian experience.
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The view of the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise from the Fairview Lookout.
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