Travel

The Essential Itinerary: Nanaimo, B.C.

Vancouver Island’s gateway city invites visitors to come for the Nanaimo bars and stay for the whales, wine cellars and waterfront adventures

  • Aug 12, 2026
  • 1,666 words
  • 7 minutes
With Vancouver Island Whale Watch, visitors can spot orcas, humpbacks and other marine mammals while touring the waters surrounding Nanaimo.
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Wandering the streets of Nanaimo, I take in the multitude of sounds that reveal the city’s character layer by layer: sea lions barking from the docks, wind chimes swaying outside a locally owned store, seaplanes buzzing overhead and fishing boats sounding off in the harbour. And, of course, somewhere not too far away, I imagine the quiet sigh of contentment made by someone enjoying the first bite of their Nanaimo bar.

Much like the city’s iconic no-bake dessert, Nanaimo is defined by layers. On the surface, the harbour city serves as a gateway to Vancouver Island, with the Nanaimo Airport and Departure Bay ferry terminal welcoming travellers to the island’s wild coast. Peel back the first layer, however, and you’ll discover that Nanaimo is a destination in and of itself, boasting a vibrant arts and culture scene, a rich history, an abundance of outdoor adventure possibilities and an impressive culinary landscape. It’s a heady combination of attractions that make this city well worth more than a pass through on your next Vancouver Island adventure.

In Maffeo Sutton Park, a popular waterfront gathering place overlooking the city’s harbour, visitors can find the the colourful Nanaimo sign.
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Along with orcas and humpbacks, seals are another possible sighting during a tour with Vancouver Island Whale Watch.
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DAY ONE

9:15 a.m. | Meet the locals

Orcas, humpbacks and grey whales, oh my! Departing from Nanaimo’s natural harbour, Vancouver Island Whale Watch offers the chance to see some of the Salish Sea’s most iconic marine mammals. Tours depart year-round and typically last three to five hours with a whale sighting success rate of more than 90 per cent. 

Cormorants gather on a rocky ledge during a wildlife-viewing tour with Vancouver Island Whale Watch.
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But it is the company’s commitment to conservation that truly sets it apart. Operating under the slogan Experience. Inspire. Protect., Vancouver Island Whale Watch takes an educational, research-driven approach to wildlife viewing. The tours visit the home ranges of healthier whale populations, including Bigg’s orcas, humpbacks and other commonly sighted species, while intentionally avoiding areas frequented by critically endangered southern resident killer whales,

“We really wanted to focus on an educational and sustainable way of doing things,” says Val Watson, a naturalist and the company’s office manager. On each tour, naturalists educate guests on issues affecting the marine life in the area and ID every whale spotted along the journey. The images are then published on the company’s blog for the enjoyment of guests and for use by researchers.

The "classic Nanaimo bar" from Red’s Bakery.
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2 p.m. | When in Nanaimo…

A visit to Nanaimo is not complete without one too many Nanaimo bars — the rich, three-layered Canadian delicacy whose key ingredients include shredded coconut, custard and chocolate. With origins tracing back to the late 1940s and early 1950s, the iconic dessert did, in fact, originate in Nanaimo, and there are no shortage of varieties to try. From peanut butter and maple bacon-topped bars to Nanaimo bar milkshakes, fudge, and cheesecake, the self-guided Nanaimo Bar Trail offers sweet tooths a guide to the city’s best Nanaimo offerings.

Red’s Bakery is widely celebrated, an institution beloved by locals for decades. But Brix + Mortar SocialHouse, which launched in 2025, is nipping at its heals with a standout Nanaimo bar boasting a thick coconut base, a creamy layer of custard and a delicate top coat of chocolate ganache. 

7 p.m. | One of everything

One of the top places to dine in Nanaimo, Black Rabbit Kitchen showcases an eclectic menu built around simple ingredients prepared in an elevated manner: radishes on a bed of whipped miso butter drizzled with hot honey; cured scallops with white kimchi and Asian pear cut into the shape of a rabbit; and — my personal favourite — house pickles neatly arranged on a plate of crème fraîche.

Black Rabbit Kitchen serves a rotating selection of house pickles. Pictured here is a version served over crème fraîche alongside radishes on a bed of whipped miso butter drizzled with hot honey.
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Originally from the Prairies, owner Amy Ferris moved to Nanaimo in 2017 and opened White Rabbit coffee shop inside a historic repurposed train station in the Old City Quarter. Four years later, she opened Black Rabbit Kitchen next door. Walking up to the restaurant, I see a wild black rabbit munching grass on the lawn. “I call him the unpaid actor,” says Ferris.

Black Rabbit Kitchen invites guests to slow down and stay a while. Here, plates are designed to be shared, arriving as they are ready and encouraging conversation between bites rather than between courses. Seasonal ingredients sourced from Vancouver Island influence a menu that will have you wanting to order “one of everything”.

Seasonal ingredients sourced from Vancouver Island build Black Rabbit Kitchen’s eclectic menu of elevated, shareable plates.
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The Nanaimo bar from Brix + Mortar SocialHouse.
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DAY TWO

8 a.m. | Breakfast with character

For the most aesthetically pleasing breakfast in Nanaimo, head to The Vault Cafe — a well-loved community hub. Housed inside a former bank, the café/restaurant/music venue is impossible to miss, with a pink exterior and an interior that has you feeling as if you’ve been dropped into the set of a Wes Anderson film.

The interior of The Vault Cafe features a unique and cosy interior.
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Above the fully stocked bar, a hand-lettered chalkboard menu showcases the day’s menu, which includes a solid lineup of vegan and vegetarian options. There’s also a drool-worthy display case of baked goods. The mandatory Nanaimo bar shares space with a myriad of other tempting items, including the lemon bar, a personal favourite. 

The Vault also hosts a variety of events, from jazz nights and drag shows to art exhibits and open-mic nights. Upstairs, The Vault Bazaar hosts a series of unique shops and studios, offering another reason to linger after breakfast.

Noon | Country roads and cold pints

Surrounded by beautiful gardens and serving up classic English pub fare, Crow & Gate Pub is a 20-minute drive south of Nanaimo, tucked away in the community of Yellow Point. As you wind along country roads, you may find yourself wondering if you’ve taken a wrong turn, but this is part of the charm.

Crow and Gate's stuffed Yorkshire pudding with the golden beet salad in the background.
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The Tudor-style establishment, which has been welcoming guests since 1972, is unassuming from the outside, revealing its personality once guests step inside. Guinness memorabilia lines the walls, while antique rugs, brick fireplaces and long wooden tables add to the cozy atmosphere. On the menu: Scotch eggs, steak and mushroom pie, fish and chips, smoked salmon chowder, and dozens of other hearty comfort dishes.

In the summer, the sprawling gardens blossom into one of Vancouver Island’s most idyllic patios, while cooler days invite guests to settle in beside the fire. NOTE: The pub is reserved for guests aged 19 and older, making it an ideal stop for a leisurely evening meal or a post-adventure pint.

Admiring the view of Nanaimo from Protection Island, the 70-hectare, car-free community just 1.5 kilometres northeast of Nanaimo and accessible via a 10-minute ferry ride.
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6 p.m. | A pirate’s life for me

Home to Canada’s only registered floating pub and restaurant, Protection Island is a 70-hectare, car-free community located about 1.5 kilometres northeast of Nanaimo. Accessible via a 10-minute ferry ride from the Nanaimo Harbour, Protection Island boasts about 330 full-time residents, along with a small fire station, library, community centre and a host of parks with pirate-themed names.

While Protection Island has its share of quiet, sandy beaches, many visitors head directly to the Dinghy Dock Pub & Restaurant to enjoy a crispy plate of fish and chips while admiring the Nanaimo skyline. An extensive drink menu features unique cocktails like the Smugglers Smooch, Mermaid Lemonade, Wrecked Pirate and plenty of alcohol-free options.

The Protection Island Ferry runs year-round (even if the pub is closed), departing Nanaimo at 10 minutes past the hour and returning from Protection Island on the hour.

With a 4.5 kilometre scenic walkway, Nanaimo Harbour is a popular spot for both tourists and locals.
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The exterior of Red's Bakery, which many believe serves the city's best Nanaimo bar.
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DAY THREE

7:30 a.m. | Coffee, then adventure

Unlike many cafes in Nanaimo, which don’t open until after 8 a.m., Brix & Mortar SocialHouse welcomes early risers from 7:30 a.m. daily. This locally-owned gathering places serves up a mean matcha and a menu that extends well beyond coffee and dessert, offering up all-day waffles, freshly baked breads, breakfast sandwiches, paninis and soups.

But if you are here just for the drinks, look for everything from expertly crafted espressos and affogatos to hot chocolate, loose-leaf teas and fresh juices.

Kayaking with Island Römer Adventures offers a water-level perspective of Nanaimo’s harbour and Saysutshun.
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1:30 p.m. | Paddling in paradise

In 2003, Dutchman Richard Römer visited Nanaimo on vacation and immediately fell in love with the city. Five years later, he and his partner, Cécile van Woensel, relocated from the Netherlands and have been in Nanaimo ever since.

The duo founded Island Römer Adventures in 2019 and have been guiding visitors through the Salish Sea on half-day (three- and four-hour) and full-day (seven-hour) excursions ever since. “This really is paradise,” says Römer, while circumnavigating Saysutshun (formerly known as Newcastle Island) from the back of a tandem sea kayak. “Any day on the water is a good day.”

Sight-seeing at water level offers an entirely different perspective. Paddlers observe ferries gliding past in the distance and sandstone cliffs rising from Saysutshun, all while Römer shares his passion for — and knowledge about — this region.

Tucked beneath downtown Nanaimo, Embers Wine & Charcuterie Cellar specializes in customizable boards filled with cured meats, cheeses and accompaniments.
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7 p.m. | Raise a glass

Tucked beneath the streets of downtown Nanaimo, Embers Wine & Charcuterie Cellar is both warm and welcoming — the perfect spot for a romantic date night or simply a memorable evening.

The Embers specialty is a picture-perfect, customizable charcuterie board. Each board begins with a generous spread of crackers, nuts, dried fruit, chutneys and other accompaniments before guests choose from an extensive selection of cured meats, cheeses and specialty add-ons. Think extra-old cheddar from P.E.I.’s Cows Creamery, Grana Padano from Italy and Manchego from Spain, paired with everything from Italian Genoa salami and German Schinkenspeck to Ontario-made capocollo.

Along with plenty of RV sites, Snaw-Naw-As Campground also offers six cabins equipped with a full kitchen, living room and a separate bedroom.
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Guests at Snaw-Naw-As Campground can watch the sunset over the Strait of Georgia from the comfort of their cabin.
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WHERE TO STAY: Snaw-naw-as Campground

Located just 20 minutes outside Nanaimo in Nanoose Bay, Snaw-Naw-As Campground may seem like an unlikely place to base your Nanaimo adventures, but trading a downtown hotel for peace within nature is well worth the short drive into the city.

Nestled within the Snaw-Naw-As (Nanoose) First Nation community, the campground offers sweeping views over the Strait of Georgia and spectacular sunsets that can be enjoyed from the comfort of your own cabin.

Snaw-Naw-As has RV and tent sites, as well as six cabins with clear ocean views and outfitted with a barbecue, a fully equipped kitchen and enough room to comfortably sleep four

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