People & Culture

A mother-daughter escape to Elora, champagne included

At the Kat Florence Hotel and its private riverside reserve, a luxurious getaway reveals a hometown passion for preserving history and nature

  • Oct 19, 2026
  • 2,453 words
  • 10 minutes
Writer Madigan Cotterill (right) and her mother, Nora, enjoy Chef Marc Collyer’s freshly prepared breakfast basket, hand-delivered to each guest’s room daily.
Expand Image
Advertisement
Advertisement

The most sophisticated way to open a bottle of champagne is to do so as quietly as possible, producing a soft sigh or hiss rather than a loud pop. I learn this while sitting with my mother at the edge of the Grand River in Elora, Ontario, as we sip Veuve Clicquot from glass coupes. It’s early fall and the leaves have just begun to change. In the distance, we hear the low-pitched honks of migrating Canada geese.

Glass coupes filled with Veuve Clique await beside Elora's Grand River in the Kat Florence Reserve.
Expand Image

We’re visiting Elora for a much-needed mother-daughter getaway — something we haven’t done in more than a decade. Though we both live in Toronto, our busy schedules make it hard to find time for longer visits. But for the next two nights, Nora and I have nowhere else we need to be.

“You must be Madigan!” says Cecilia Bradley, a personal concierge at the Kat Florence Hotel. She then smiles at my mother. “And you must be Nora. We’re so excited to have you!”

A few hours before settling in beside the river, my mother and I had pulled up to the luxury boutique hotel in the heart of Elora, about 90 minutes west of Toronto. Before we even got out of the car, Bradley had our luggage in hand. “Don’t worry about your car; we’ll park that for you,” she said cheerfully.

Built in 1848 the original Commercial Hotel was a community hub and meeting place. Today, the meticulously restored stone building houses the Kat Florence Hotel, a luxurious destination that honours the building’s heritage while embracing a thoroughly modern vision for today’s traveller.

Instead of the typical hotel reception desk, we are greeted by a counter displaying meticulously crafted pastries under glass domes, treats made fresh daily by Chef Marc Collyer. Beside the delicacies sits a chilled bottle of Veuve Clicquot — a common theme of the experience. On the walls, display cases highlight sparkling jewellery featuring some of the largest gems I’ve ever seen.

The jewellery is the work of Kat Florence herself. Before making her mark as a hotelier, fine jewellery designer and gem collector, the sixth-generation Elora native enjoyed a typical Elora childhood. She remembers exploring the region’s landscapes and watching films at the Gorge Cinema, the theatre attached to the historic hotel she would one day restore.

The lobby of the Kat Florence Hotel incorporates soft lighting and natural materials to curate a sophisticated and inviting ambiance.
Expand Image

“As a child, watching films here opened up a whole new world for me,” writes Florence on her website. “They were my first glimpse into different cultures, places and ideas far beyond what I knew growing up in a small Canadian town.”

In 2020, Florence and her husband, Don Kogen, purchased the property after learning it was threatened by redevelopment. To preserve its historic character, the building’s original limestone sourced from the Elora Quarry was carefully dismantled stone by stone and reused in the restoration.

“Kat hand-picked everything,” says Bradley, turning the golden knob of a light switch while giving us a tour of our suite. “She’s very attentive to detail.”

I admire the rustic-chic decor, stone walls and cozy fireplace. A modern kitchen and bar lead to a dining area and a counter accessorized with yet another chilled bottle of Veuve Clicquot. My mother and I exchange looks of disbelief and chuckle with excitement.

A charcuterie board and (more) Veuve Clicquot ready to be enjoyed amidst the serenity of the 100-acre Kat Florence Reserve.
Expand Image

The hotel has six suites: four in the main building and two within walking distance, each named after a gem. We’re in the 850-square-foot Paraiba Suite, with views of the Grand River. Small-town charm and history, however, are not the only aspects of Elora that Florence is keen on preserving.

A short drive away is the Kat Florence Reserve, a 100-acre (40 hectares) private nature sanctuary that is home to Florence’s personal residence and encompasses 2,500 feet along the banks of the Grand River. Reserve manager Theo Martin cares for the land, but it remains mostly untouched. Access is by invitation only for hotel guests. Florence purchased the property to preserve the cedar and spruce forests she grew up exploring, ensuring that this special landscape would be safe from development.

“The guests really like the chance to get into nature,” says Martin, the self-proclaimed “heartbeat” of the reserve. He maintains the minimally invasive network of trails for guests to amble along.

Of course, even a Kat Florence wilderness experience isn’t complete without champagne. While my mother and I sit by the river enjoying our bubbly refreshments, Martin prepares a small campfire beside a white sheepskin blanket and pulls out a fully loaded charcuterie board. “Anyone hungry?” he asks.

An amuse-bouche of lobster and crab topped with salmon roe prepared by Chef Shai-Ann Tyson.
Expand Image
The Kat Florence Hotel 'Infinity Patisserie' includes a daily display of pastries, cookies and other treats prepared by Chef Marc Collyer.
Expand Image

There’s no set menu on the Kat Florence website. Each night, guests discover where they’ll be dining and which chef will be preparing the meal. Back in our room following our tour of the reserve, my mother and I ponder what the evening’s dinner adventure will look like while frantically trying to decide what to wear. “I didn’t bring fancy clothes!” I tell my mother. “Neither did I!” she responds.

Each suite in the Kat Florence Hotel includes boutique Elora toiletries and a Dyson hairdryer, among other surprises.
Expand Image

Minutes earlier, we had been standing in front of the bathroom mirror in our cozy Kat Florence-branded bathrobes, laughing as we tried to figure out how to curl our hair using the Dyson Airwrap provided in each room. We soon learn there’s no expectation to dress up. A quick swipe of lipstick, a coat of mascara and a spritz of perfume and we’re on our way.

“Chef Shai-Ann will be cooking for you tonight,” says Bradley, walking us across the street to the Kat Florence Library. The newly added, guests-only space overlooks the river and offers a quiet place to read and relax — it’s also the perfect spot for sundowners.

“Champagne flows like water here,” says Jenny Rivkind, the hotel’s guest services and concierge manager as she pours us two more coupes of Veuve Clicquot. “Soon, you’ll be in a Kat Florence food coma,” she adds. “The indulgence keeps giving!”

Two more couples join us on the terrace: one from Toronto, here for a quick getaway, and another from Barrie celebrating a birthday. Tonight, we’ll be dining together. Bringing guests together is part of the hotel’s approach to hospitality, making dinner feel more like a gathering of family and friends.

The evening begins with canapés of mac and cheese bites topped with caviar, followed by an artisan cracker topped with jamón ibérico and relish. We’re then ushered inside for the main event — a five-course meal.

The youngest contestant on season 12 of Top Chef Canada, Shai-Ann Tyson landed her first executive chef job at age 25. Her dishes draw on her Trinidadian and Venezuelan heritage, combining Caribbean and Latin ingredients with Canadian flavours. “Tonight’s dinner is influenced by Caribbean and Spanish cuisine,” Tyson tells us. “You’ll also see that I like to have fun with food.”

Chef Shai-Ann Tyson's mangoes and cream dessert, featuring cereal panna cotta, passion fruit sponge cake and rum-compressed mango.
Expand Image

We begin with an amuse-bouche of lobster and crab topped with salmon roe. Next comes a tiradito (a classic Peruvian raw fish dish) of thinly sliced sea bass with sweet potato crisp, roasted corn and coriander, followed by doubles (a popular Trinidadian street food in which a spicy filling is sandwiched between fried flatbread). Tonight, Tyson has stuffed the mini “sandwich” with braised short ribs and chickpeas. Five-spice duck is served with succotash, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and plantains.

We finish with mangoes and cream, a beautiful dessert featuring cereal panna cotta, passion fruit sponge cake and rum-compressed mango. Throughout the evening, our wine glasses never sit empty.

Although we begin the evening as strangers, the six of us soon find ourselves in lively conversation, covering everything from our favourite sandwiches in Toronto to which salon provides the best hair extensions.

Back in our room, my mother and I recap the day and chat about our plans for tomorrow as we get ready for bed. I fall asleep almost instantly — a Kat Florence food coma, indeed.

The 850-square-foot Paraiba Suite includes a full modern kitchen, king bedroom, bathroom, floor-to-ceiling original stone walls and views of the Grand River.
Expand Image
In an effort to preserve the charm and character of the past, every detail of the Kat Florence Hotel was crafted to honour its heritage, including the stonework displayed throughout the hotel.
Expand Image

At precisely 8:30 a.m., Rivkind knocks on our door with breakfast: fresh juices, chia seed pudding with poached pears, handmade butter with sea salt, fruit and a basket of still-warm pastries prepared by Chef Collyer. Sipping Nespresso coffees in our bathrobes, we dip into the basket and agree the croissants are among the best we’ve ever tasted, crisp and flaky on the outside, chewy and buttery on the inside.

After breakfast, Rivkind drives us to the Elora Gorge Conservation Area where we take in the scenery and fall colours on a quick lap of the trails. On the way, I ask her more about the craftmanship behind the restoration and she tells us about the collaboration with B.E.N. Stoneworks, the local family-run masonry team behind the meticulous stonework repairs.

The fresh breakfast basket by Chef Marc Collyer, featuring unique pastries, breads, cookies and signature butter.
Expand Image

By late morning, we’re at the Elora Distilling Company for a tour and a taste of its award-winning spirits, handcrafted with local grains and botanicals. “We’re a grain-to-glass distillery,” says Alex Harrison, the distillery’s production supervisor. “Everything is sourced within a 15-kilometre radius.”

As we wander through the distillery, we are surrounded by the aroma of warm molasses as a batch of rum is prepared. The distillery crafts a number spirits and today Harrison walks us through the gin-distilling process, imparting many anecdotes along the way.

Our tour ends with an intimidating flight of 18 spirits to taste, including Elora Rye Whisky, Citrus Pink Gin and Chocolate Hazelnut Liqueur. We gamely make our way through a good number, though we abandon the challenge before experiencing the full lineup. It is still morning, after all!

Lunch is at Lost + Found Café, just a three-minute walk from the distillery and almost next door to the hotel. We refuel quickly, then head back to the hotel to enjoy another of Florence’s gifts: a 60-minute in-room La Mer-infused massage.

Nicola, our massage therapist, sets up the table in the living room of our suite. She closes the curtains, dims the lights, turns on calming music and lights a candle. As the scent of the La Mer Renewal Oil hits my nose, I feel myself melting into a deeply relaxed state.

Massage over, and in a post-massage daze, my mother and I emerge to check out the guests-only Nordic Spa just steps outside our room. The air is crisp, but not yet cold, as we head into the cedar sauna. I sit on the top bench while my mother lies flat on the level below. I pour water over the hot rocks, which sizzle and fill the room with steam. Maybe it’s the heat, maybe it’s my post-massage state, or maybe it’s just the realization that today has been a rare chance in our busy lives to simply be, but a wave of emotion suddenly washes over me.

It has been years since I’ve spent this kind of time with my mother. We see each other in the city, but usually with other family members or for a quick visit on the way to somewhere else. She’s spent her adult life caring for me and my three younger brothers, and I’m grateful for the chance to treat her to an experience like this.

Moments later, desperate for relief from the heat, I submerge myself in the cold therapy pool. “You’re next,” I say to my mother. A raised eyebrow effectively communicates her response — not a chance.

Chef Anthony's bluefin tuna tartare (bottom), truffle parfait (left) and sourdough tostada (top).
Expand Image
As well as her work as a boutique hotelier, Kat Florence is an internationally recognized luxury fine jewelry designer and gem collector.
Expand Image

“Welcome back!” says Bridget Wyse, the front-of-house manager at Tony’s Sourdough Pizzeria. My mother and I were here for lunch on our first day in Elora, sitting at the bar in front of the open kitchen, watching Tony (Anthony Bish, or more respectfully, Chef Anthony Bish) slide pizzas in and out of the wood-burning oven.

The New Yorker pizza from Tony's Sourdough, which includes smoked provola, artisanal beef pepperoni. wild oregano, pecorino Romano, basil pesto and burrata.
Expand Image

Born in Thailand and raised in Phuket, Chef Anthony graduated from Le Cordon Bleu Dusit in Bangkok before working in kitchens around the world. He’s cooked for the Thai royal family, collaborated with Michelin-starred chefs and competed on shows like Iron Chef and Master Chef. His love of sourdough, however, began with his grandmother’s pancakes, made using the starter recipe that now forms the foundation of his pizza dough. Even though I’m not much of a pizza fan, I can attest that these pies are extraordinary.

Florence and Kogen clearly agree. Regulars at his pizzeria in Bangkok, they helped him and his family relocate to Elora, where he and his wife wanted to raise their two daughters away from the big city. “Driving a stroller around Bangkok is not easy,” he says.

Tony’s Sourdough is a must-visit in Elora. But tonight, the pizza joint is transformed into simply Anthony’s, a private dining space exclusively for hotel guests.

“We’ll have to get our names written on these seats,” jokes my mother. We’re in the same spot as we were for lunch the previous day, once again observing Chef Anthony work his magic. Over the next hour, we dine on bluefin tuna tartare from P.E.I., langoustine grilled in the wood-fired oven, 24-hour braised beef short rib (no knife required) and an apple tarte tatin with salted duck egg yolk custard.

In less than 48 hours, familiar faces and warm welcomes have already made Elora feel comfortable. But we still have one last morning.

The Kat Florence Rolls-Royce parked outside of the hotel in downtown Elora.
Expand Image

Never have I ever been in a Rolls-Royce — until now.

After another delectable breakfast, my mother and I meet Nicole Drake Wright, the hotel’s director of operations. Parked outside and waiting for us is a pristine white Rolls-Royce with an eye-catching Forge Yellow interior. Pedestrians are already stopping to take pictures.

Writer Madigan Cotterill (left) and her mother, Nora, enjoying another glass of champagne in the Kat Florence Reserve. (Photo: Theo Martin)
Expand Image

For the next half hour, Drake Wright takes us on a tour of the Township of Centre Wellington, passing through Elora, Fergus, Salem, Belwood and a handful of smaller communities.

We drive past the newly opened Imperial Jade Manor, the latest addition to the hotel, housed in another historic limestone building dating to the 1870s, before returning to say our good-byes.

As we depart Elora in my family’s Subaru Forester, we pass the Kat Florence Reserve one last time. In less than two hours, we’ll be back in downtown Toronto, surrounded by skyscrapers and condos. For now, I take one last look at the landscape where, just two days ago, my mother and I first sat sipping champagne beside the Grand River.

Florence’s passion for preserving Elora’s history and natural spaces has given us a place to slow down and spend time together. Soon, we’ll return to our busy schedules, where living in the same city somehow still means weeks can pass without us seeing each other. But with my mother beside me on the drive home, I know I don’t want to wait another decade to do this again.

Advertisement

Help us tell Canada’s story

You can support Canadian Geographic in 3 ways:

Related Content

Wildlife

The good bear: Co-existence on Yukon’s Klukshu River

The ice bears of Klukshu have been living with people and salmon for millennia. Is this age-old balance under threat?

  • 3081 words
  • 13 minutes

Travel

The evolving family-friendly resorts of Ontario

Robin Esrock visits four different resorts to discover how getaway traditions in southern Ontario continue to thrive

  • 2824 words
  • 12 minutes

People & Culture

Rivers of resistance: A history of the Métis Nation of Ontario

“We were tired of hiding behind trees.” The ebb and flow of Métis history as it has unfolded on Ontario’s shores 

  • 4409 words
  • 18 minutes

People & Culture

Les rivières de la résistance : une histoire de la Métis Nation of Ontario

« Nous en avions assez de nous cacher derrière les arbres. » Les flux et reflux de l’histoire des Métis telle qu’elle s’est déroulée sur les rives de l’Ontario 

  • 4946 words
  • 20 minutes
Advertisement
Advertisement