The Edo-period streets of Magome. (Photo: Chloe Berge)
Compared to the Kumano Kodo, the Kiso-ji, a portion of the Nakasendo Trail from Magome to Tsumago, is more of a leisurely walk than a hike. However, for those who consider huffing and puffing up a steep incline the furthest thing from a vacation, or for families travelling with small children, it offers just the right amount of activity. The trail, which meanders through the Kiso Valley, was used as a trade route between modern-day Tokyo and Kyoto in the 17th century, and still retains much of its historic charm.
Begin your journey back to a time of geishas and feudal lords by settling in at one of Magome’s Edo-style ryokans for the night. Tajimaya Minshuku serves a spread of fresh local fish, rice, and pickled vegetables for dinner and invites visitors to linger around the irori (hearth) with a glass of sake after their meal and watch a traditional dance.
In the morning, tread in the footsteps of ancient Samurai as you head uphill past the tourist information centre. Opt for the baggage forwarding service there if you don’t have a backpack. Continue to follow the stone-flagged path until you reach Magome-t?ge, the highest point of the trail, which is marked by an old teahouse and a stone monument engraved with a haiku by the revered poet Masaoka Shiki. From there, forge ahead into the woods; the trail alternates between high vistas of leafy mountains and dips into tiny villages you can be certain most people who travel to Japan never get to see.
Three hours and several Shinto shrines later, you will arrive at Tsumago, where fairytale-like wooden row houses wave their original 17th-century shutters, screens, and lanterns in greeting. Refuel with gohei-mochi (balls of rice covered in a sweet nut sauce) from Yamagiri at the north end of the village and then continue along that path for another 10 minutes. You’ll arrive at the former site of Tsumago castle, where you can savour a bird’s-eye view of the Edo-Period town.
Map