Annotated photograph of Mount Logan. (Photo: LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES CANADA, E011313492)
Lead captain Albert H. MacCarthy, assistant lead Fred Lambart, Alan Carpe, Henry S. Hall, Norman H. Read, Robert M. Morgan, Andy Taylor and W. W. Foster began their climb on May 18, after hiking about 140 kilometres from the town of McCarthy, Alaska, deep into the wilderness. At the mountain, much of their ascent was taken up with grinding slogs as they relayed supplies up and down the glaciers to various camps. In total, they climbed 24,292 metres, or roughly three to four times the height of the mountain.
By June 11, at King Col camp (5,090 metres), the team was exhausted and showing signs of elevation sickness. Lambart reported shortness of breath, and Morgan and Carpe both vomited during the night. “If Mac doesn’t let up, there are a few that will not get through who otherwise could have done so,” Lambart wrote in his diary. Discussions were held to try to convince MacCarthy to slow the pace.
The men planned to make it to the summit and back in four days, Lambart wrote. In reality, it took them another 10 gruelling days of climbing in clumsy snowshoes and crampons. Morgan, accompanied by Hall, had to turn back due to poor health. The remaining six continued to push ahead, up and down a few switchbacks up the final steep, icy ascent. Finally, on June 23, “we are on the top of the highest point in the Dominion of Canada. […] We all congratulated Mac and shook hands. […] Carpe ran the Bell and Howell [a type of film camera] a few seconds, Read took some snaps, but we were reminded by Andy
that there was a storm brewing.”