Exploration

Finding Quest

Inside the expedition that found famed explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton’s famed last ship

  • Nov 06, 2024
  • 3,600 words
  • 15 minutes
Members of the British Arctic Air Route Expedition of 1930 unload Quest at their base camp on the eastern coast of Greenland. Eight years earlier, Antarctic explorer Ernest Shackleton died aboard the ship en route to the southern continent. (Photo: British Arctic Air Route Expedition Photograph/Sydney Morning Herald)
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The first days of 1922 found the great Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton in a reflective mood. His ship, Quest, had finally reached South Georgia Island in the South Atlantic Ocean after a months-long voyage plagued by bad weather and mechanical problems, and now he looked forward to sailing into the ice on what was planned to be his final expedition. But the stress of the journey had taken a toll. On the evening of January 4, he wrote in his diary about the familiar sights and smells of Grytviken whaling station, where Quest was anchored, and concluded with a poetic flourish:

“In the darkening twilight I saw a lone star hover: gem like above the bay”

A cross-section of Quest fitted out for the Shackleton-Rowett Expedition, published in Scientific American. (Photo: Popular Mechanics Magazine 1921 (Public Domain))
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Hours later, Shackleton suffered a massive heart attack and died in his cabin, aged 47. His death ended the so-called Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration, in which daring adventurers competed to reach ever more southerly latitudes and either came home with epic tales of human triumph over the elements or succumbed to them. The ill-fated Shackleton-Rowett Expedition became little more than a footnote in the Shackleton myth. Quest was sold to a Norwegian family and spent much of the next 40 years working as a sealer in the Arctic. When she sank off the coast of Labrador on a foggy spring evening in 1962, the world took little notice. 

Quest deserved better. Her name can be found again and again in accounts of early 20th-century Arctic exploration, crossing paths with a veritable who’s who of the field. The discovery of the wreck of Endurance, Shackleton’s most famous ship, in Antarctica’s Weddell Sea in March 2022 (eerily, exactly 100 years to the day that the explorer was buried on South Georgia Island) was a call to action.

There was still one Shackleton ship out there — in Canadian waters, no less. To find her would not only bring the explorer’s story full circle, but also allow other stories to be told.

Which is why, on a brisk June night, under a bright sliver of new moon that seems to echo Shackleton’s last written words, an expedition team is preparing to drop a sonar towfish into the Labrador Sea.

Quest was found 62 years after her journey ended on a foggy spring night about 80 kilometres off the coast of Labrador. (Map: Chris Brackley/Can Geo. Data: Bathymetry: GEBCO Grid, 2024)
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“Not every shipwreck deserves to be found.”

It’s June 6, 2024, afternoon. LeeWay Odyssey, a former Canadian Coast Guard patrol vessel turned oceanographic research ship, is rolling northeast up the coast of Newfoundland, having left St. John’s in thick fog and rain showers 18 hours earlier. I’m squished onto a bench in the cramped ship’s mess with other members of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society’s Shackleton Quest Expedition, listening to a presentation on what exactly it is we’re doing out here.

The vibe in the room can best be described as “engaged but disoriented,” as those of us who are new to small-ship expedition life struggle to adjust to Odyssey’s constant motion. Every time she rolls to port, the stiff curtains fall away from the windows at a 45-degree angle; it’s only thanks to the anti-nausea pills I begged off the ship’s chief officer the night before that I’m keeping my lunch down.

Expedition members Antoine Normandin and Jan Chojecki kiss the wharf in St. Anthony, N.L., in a tribute to the patron saint of lost things. (Photo: Alexandra Pope/Can Geo)
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David Mearns, the expedition’s search director, leans against a counter with the practised ease of many sea voyages. An American marine scientist and oceanographer specializing in deep water search and recovery operations, Mearns has found dozens of major shipwrecks around the world, including the deepest wreck ever found, the German blockade runner Rio Grande at 5,762 metres. At this point in his unusual career, he can afford to be choosy.

“It’s not the ship; it’s the people who were in the ship,” he says. “To be able to tell or retell their story in a different way, using the shipwreck as the platform — this is what I focus on now.”

Mearns had long wanted to find Endurance for his friend Alexandra Shackleton (affectionately known as Zaz), granddaughter of the great explorer. One of the most famous polar shipwrecks of all time, Endurance sank in 1915 after being crushed in pack ice in the Weddell Sea during the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition of 1914-17. The journey of Shackleton and five companions from Elephant Island to South Georgia Island in a small ship’s boat — a journey of 1,300 kilometres through some of the roughest seas on Earth — to seek rescue for Endurance’s crew was the stuff of legend and cemented Shackleton’s legacy as not just a great explorer, but a great leader. 

Mearns was not involved in the expedition that ultimately found Endurance in 2022, so when expedition leader John Geiger, CEO of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society, asked him to assist in the search for another Shackleton ship, he agreed to do it for Zaz, on one condition: that the Society demonstrate, through rigorous research, there was a better than 70 per cent chance of finding Quest.

But one does not simply sail into the middle of the ocean and find a wreck. In the best-case scenario, you have multiple sets of coordinates for the ship’s last known position. For Quest, there was one. 

Quest's last known position is marked on a navigation chart. (Photo: Jill Heinerth/Can Geo)
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When Quest went down on May 5, 1962, she was two months into a seal hunting trip in the sea ice off Labrador. She’d been taking on water since she left her home port of Bodø, Norway, in February. Then, the fatal blow: on April 1, her hull was wrenched by shifting ice, hard enough to break deck screws in the engine room and warp cabin doors. Her Norwegian crew did everything they could to keep her afloat and continue with the catch, but when it became clear that she would sink, the evacuation was calm and orderly. The crew offloaded as much cargo and valuables as they could to four nearby ships, then watched as Quest slowly heeled over to starboard and slipped beneath the waves.

In a telegram to her owners in Bodø, sent shortly after the sinking, Captain Olav Johannesen reported her final position: 53°10’ N, 54°27’ W. The job of interrogating the accuracy of those coordinates fell to Antoine Normandin, lead researcher for the expedition. A geographer with a background in aircraft navigation systems, Normandin had researched wreck locations in the past purely out of personal interest. When he mentioned his nerdy hobby to Geiger in late 2023, Geiger quickly recruited him to the search for Quest.

This afternoon in LeeWay Odyssey’s mess, Normandin — mid-30s, trim, with a mop of black curls and just a trace of a French accent — shows no sign of the exhaustion and worry that will soon overtake him. He’s animated, walking us through a positively Holmesian feat of detective work.

The biggest question was how Captain Johannesen had obtained Quest’s final position. Foggy conditions on the night of the sinking, corroborated both by photographs and historical weather data, would have made it extremely difficult to take an accurate position using celestial navigation. But Normandin hoped a clue might reside in the ship’s logs from one of Quest’s rescuers. It just so happened that the Norwegian national archives held two logs from Kvitfjell, which picked up some of Quest’s crew — including one from the year of the sinking. A hopeful Normandin requested the logbook for 1962 and flew to Tromsø. 

There was still one Shackleton ship to find out there. To find her would bring the explorer’s story full circle. 

The archives are open only one day a week, and Normandin arrived as the doors opened. “I was very excited,” he starts. “I opened the log — it was mislabelled. It was actually from 1963. Completely useless for us.”

At that point, says Normandin, “a lot of swearing in French” ensued, but he decided to peruse the log anyway, to see how often Kvitfjell’s crew were taking celestial fixes. As he flipped through, he noticed that they were recording positions at all hours of the day and night. Beside each entry was written: “Loran.”

Members of the Shackleton Quest Expedition pose with the flag of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society on the deck of LeeWay Odyssey (Photo: Jill Heinerth/Can Geo)
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Loran, short for long-range navigation, was developed in the United States during the Second World War to help convoys navigate the Atlantic Ocean and made widely available for commercial shipping in the 1950s. Ships could roughly determine their position by calculating the time difference between radio pulses emitted simultaneously from a series of stations on shore. Although primitive compared to the global positioning system introduced in the mid-1980s, loran readings were generally accurate to within one nautical mile. 

Discovering that the Norwegian rescue ship had a loran set, Normandin now felt confident that other ships out that night had the same technology onboard. In other words, despite the cloudy weather, it was likely Quest’s final position had been taken with some degree of accuracy. He hypothesized that once Captain Johannessen got off the sinking Quest, he would have waited until she went under, then taken a loran reading from the ship he was on prior to sending the telegram. 

Based on this assumption, historical ice data and the direction and speed of the predominant ocean current, Normandin drew up a search box covering 24 square nautical miles, which Mearns divided into a grid of 17 lines to be scanned with the sonar towfish. If Normandin is right, there’s a good chance Quest will be found on one of the first 11 lines. 

Shackleton waves to spectators as Quest leaves London bound for Antarctica on September 17, 1921. He prophetically told the media the expedition would be his “swan song.” (Photo: Pictorial Press LTD/Alamy Stock Photo)
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That is, of course, assuming we can get the towfish in the water. The plan for the following day, June 7, is to calibrate and test the equipment at the site of a known wreck, the MV William Carson, a car ferry that went down off Battle Harbour, N.L., in 1977. In the lightless depths of the ocean, side-scan sonar is a bit like shining a flashlight on an object from above, except the light is an acoustic pulse. As the towfish flies above the seabed, it sends fan-shaped pulses down to the left and right. Hard objects — like the hull of a shipwreck — return a strong echo, creating a large, telltale shadow. 

Illustration: Kerry Hodgson
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Craig Bulger and Sarah Walsh, the technicians from the Marine Institute at Memorial University of Newfoundland, expect calibration of the ultra-short baseline beacon, intended to track the towfish’s position relative to the ship, to take 10 minutes at most, but after three hours, the beacon still won’t return a signal. Walsh suggests the towfish be deployed anyway, at which point it’s discovered that the hydraulics in the tow winch aren’t working properly. Instead of paying out cable smoothly, the winch judders and stops — a serious problem when you’re supposed to be towing $175,000 worth of equipment 30 metres above the seabed at the end of a kilometre of cable.

As LeeWay Odyssey turns slow figure eights above the William Carson, Mearns moves restlessly between the working deck, the bridge and the lab, asking questions, making mental calculations. On deck, Normandin and Geiger, dressed in down jackets and hard hats, give optimistic soundbites to cave diver and underwater explorer Jill Heinerth, who is documenting the expedition in photos and video. A sudden fluttering catches our eyes as a yellow warbler alights on the railing of the poop deck. Its appearance sparks a flurry of excited questions and debate. Is it a stowaway? A migrant blown off course by bad weather? The spirit of Shackleton? Geiger chooses to see it as a good omen. 

By late afternoon, with the winch still malfunctioning, the mood throughout the ship is considerably less buoyant. The decision is made to turn around and make for the nearest port: St. Anthony, N.L., about eight hours away in the opposite direction to the search area. Time is now of the utmost essence. Assuming the winch can be fixed quickly, we will have at most 36 hours to complete Mearns’ lines before LeeWay Odyssey must begin the long journey back to St. John’s.

I wake at midnight to the deafening roar of the bow thrusters manoeuvring the ship alongside the wharf in St. Anthony, but quickly fall back to sleep, happy to be stationary instead of rolling in my bunk with the swell. In the morning, I head out to the poop deck to see what’s going on. The air is fresh and mild, with scraps of blue sky showing through the lifting fog. A local mechanic, whose name, I learn later, is Harvey, is working on the winch. His phone jangles and he answers; the caller asks Harvey how he’s doing today. 

“Oh, I’m slicker’n whale shit on an ice floe,” he says. I can’t tell if that’s a good thing or a bad thing, but he has the winch fixed within 15 minutes.

As Odyssey’s crew make ready to depart, Normandin and Jan Chojecki, grandson of the man who financed Shackleton’s last expedition, get on their knees and kiss the damp cement of the wharf in an appeal to St. Anthony, the patron saint of lost things.

Normandin and Mearns (left) analyze a sonar image of the wreck as Tore Topp looks on. (Photo: Jill Heinerth/Can Geo)
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Normandin, Geiger and Mearns are all smiles after the find. (Photo: Jill Heinerth/Can Geo)
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June 9, 8 a.m. The search is finally underway. Three lines within the highest-probability zone of the search box have been scanned, with no targets detected. Most of the team have taken up residence in the mess and are glued to the slow, endless scroll of data from the seabed as if binge-watching the latest Netflix show.

Mearns is sprawled on a bench, dozing with his head in his hand; it’s been a long night. Someone has started a betting pool for which line the wreck will be found on. Buy-in is $10, and the winner buys the beers back on land.

Sunset on the bridge of LeeWay Odyssey . Chief Officer Mark Carew, left, is at the controls while Martin Brooks and Jan Chojecki take in the view. (Photo: Jill Heinerth/Can Geo)
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Every so often, the sonar beam bounces off a large boulder or chunky bit of reef, and excitement rises, but Mearns waves it off. “Have you ever gone fishing?” he asks rhetorically. When the fishing is slow, you’ll jump at every phantom nibble, he explains. But when you finally feel the big one tug on your line, you know it’s the real deal. “You’ll wonder why you were looking at all these little targets, because it’ll be right there.” 

As the minutes and hours tick by, as the towfish passes directly over Quest’s final coordinates and finds nothing but empty sea floor, time seems to take on a solid quality. It’s a slightly menacing presence in the room. Needing to keep busy, I retreat to the lab and begin roughing out a draft of a story announcing a successful find. Normandin is there, watching the sonar feed on technician Craig Bulger’s screen. He hasn’t slept in about 30 hours, since Odyssey docked in St. Anthony, but he can’t tear himself away. Everyone on board seems to share a singular thought: What if we were wrong? What if we did all this for nothing?

An image of the wreck captured with the sonar towfish. (Photo: Royal Canadian Geographical Society)
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Shortly before 6 p.m., as Odyssey finishes its long, wide turn into the seventh line, I ask Normandin how he’s feeling, partly out of journalistic obligation and partly out of genuine concern. He exhales, runs his hands through his hair, steeples his fingers against his forehead. “I just want this to be over.”

Eventually, he heads to the mess for a change of scenery, and Geiger comes to takes his place. We’re joking around in a state of delirium when Geiger suddenly leaps out of his chair toward the monitor.

“What’s that? That’s it!” he shouts.

A jarring anomaly has appeared on the featureless orange ticker tape of the sonar image, about the size and shape of a grain of rice, with a shadow like a spear.

Geiger texts Normandin: are you seeing this? Then, not content to wait for an answer, he goes to confer with the team in the mess.

Normandin rushes to wake Mearns; I scramble belowdecks to wake Sarah Walsh. We gather in the lab, and Bulger checks the measurements of the target against the schematic of Quest taped to the wall. He estimates it measures about 38 metres long; Quest was 37 metres.

When Quest sank, her captain sent a telegram to her owners in Norway reporting her final coordinates — a clue that would prove vital to the finding of the wreck. (Photo courtesy Tore Topp)
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Odyssey gets lined up for another pass, and this time, with the towfish flying at a better angle and tuned to a higher resolution, it’s unmistakeable: it’s a ship, sitting upright on the seabed. What we can see of its features perfectly match those of Quest — her prominent bow, her large aluminum wheelhouse, still attached. The foremast lies perpendicular to the hull, likely ripped off by the force of the water moving through the rigging as she sank to the bottom.

Geiger and Normandin are incandescent.

“My ship-hunting days are over,” Normandin declares. “I’ve got 100 per cent right now!”

In a stark contrast to the previous 72 hours, events now unfold at lightning speed. Phone calls are made to key people on land to begin planning the announcement. Two bottles of champagne that have been kept under lock and key the entire voyage are released, and we clink glasses over the detritus that has accumulated on the tables in the mess over the past day — empty packages of candy and cookies, paper coffee cups, a small bust of Shackleton snuggled under the arm of a Roald Amundsen plushie. 

In the morning, Geiger and Mearns break the news of the find to Zaz over Zoom. Someone has gone to her house to record her reaction, so it must not have been a true surprise, but her smile, when she congratulates the pair, is genuine.

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A sequence of photos captured by one of Quest's Norwegian crew shows the iconic ship heeling over to starboard and then sinking by the stern. (Photos courtesy Tore Topp)
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Heinerth and I spend the rest of the day conducting interviews with the team, transcribing audio and preparing files for the media. It’s not until much later that night, when most everyone has gone off to bag some much-needed rest, that I have a moment to really process what has taken place. The whiteboard in the lab still displays a timeline of the search — the start and end times for each line, the time it took to turn the ship around, and finally, marked in red, the find at 7:22 p.m. Someone has tucked a postcard with a photograph of Shackleton into the bottom of the frame. 

It all seems predestined now, a perfect narrative arc from the broken winch to the find at the eleventh hour, as if there wasn’t a single universe in which we didn’t succeed in the end. Later, Mearns will say he knew as soon as we got the towfish in the water that we would find Quest, that it was just a matter of sticking to the plan and not eliminating lines when the search window began to close.

I suddenly wish I had gone outside while we were making our final pass over the wreck. It’s almost certainly a combination of exhaustion, overstimulation and too much caffeine, but the thought of Quest lying alone and half-broken in the cold and dark strikes me as unbearably sad. I find myself thinking back to Mearns’ words on our first day at sea: it’s not just about the ship, but about the people that passed through her, the remarkable stories that unfolded as she sailed to the very ends of the Earth. I believe each of us looked at her image and recognized a kindred spirit, attuned to and ready to answer the call of the unknown. 

Map: Chris Brackley/Can Geo. Data: [Quest’s planned route] Teacher World Magazine, October 1921; [Quest’s actual route] Shackleton’s Last Voyage by Frank Wild, 1923
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