Travel

Falling, flying, figuring it out: Snowboarding at midlife in Revelstoke

Nearing her 40th birthday, Canadian Geographic’s editor-in-chief swaps skis for a snowboard and discovers the thrill of learning later in life

  • Oct 28, 2025
  • 1,763 words
  • 8 minutes
Can Geo’s editor-in-chief, Alexandra Pope, flashes a thumbs up after wiping out during a snowboarding lesson at Revelstoke Mountain Resort. (Photo: Mike Masongsong)
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The padded shorts arrive at my doorstep in a nondescript cardboard box. I’m not sure what I was expecting — confetti? A high five from the delivery driver? Surely committing to try something new and objectively dangerous at nearly 40 deserves more fanfare. 

Milestone birthdays have never troubled me in the past, but this one feels different. Perhaps it’s the new morning stiffness in my back, or how a single glass of wine with dinner pretty much guarantees a headache the next day. It could be the spiky grey chin whiskers that seem to reappear as soon as I pluck them. Or maybe it’s the sobering thought that I’m edging closer to the halfway point in my life — if I’m lucky. 

Whatever it is, my spirit rebels against it. They say you’re only as old as you feel, and with the exception of my back (and my right knee, and my left foot), I still feel 25. So when I’m invited to spend a spring weekend skiing in Revelstoke, B.C., I gamely suggest to my hosts that I’d like to take a snowboarding lesson as well. 

Of course, that was before I learned that Revelstoke Mountain Resort boasts the longest vertical descent in North America and has a fearsome reputation as a playground for experts, with a full 45 per cent of its runs considered “advanced.” 

I arrive in “Revy” on a beautiful early April afternoon: sunny, 15 degrees and snowless at the base of Mount Mackenzie. The season is winding down but a few die-hards are still hanging around the resort village. Over a mezcal margarita at the Cantina del Centro downtown, I share my weekend plans with the bartender, Jonathan, a snowboarding enthusiast who hails from Sardinia, Italy. 

“Well, spring snow is very soft and forgiving,” he says comfortingly. But, as it transpires, he hasn’t gotten on his board in months due to a compound fracture in his lower back, sustained in a fall on the mountain.

I’m beginning to think the padded shorts aren’t enough. 

A beautiful spring evening in Revelstoke. (Photo: Alexandra Pope/Can Geo)
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First, though, I’m going skiing, continuing a long tradition that arrived in Revelstoke more than 130 years ago with Norwegian settlers. Local merchants quickly figured out that strapping on a pair of “Norwegian snowshoes” and throwing yourself down a mountain was the best way to make the most of the long Canadian winter, and for much of the early 20th century, Revelstoke reigned supreme in the realm of competitive ski jumping.  

In the resort village, I fuel up with a green smoothie and veggie breakfast wrap from La Baguette, a cheery, Québecois-inspired bakery. Then, I head to the gondola to meet Laura Meggs, the resort’s communications manager. Dressed head-to-toe in black, with only the tips of her blonde hair visible beneath her toque, Meggs exudes that air of effortless cool that all athletic people seem to share. 

As the Revelation Gondola whisks us up to the Mackenzie Outpost, elevation 1,690 metres, she points out the double-black diamond trail below, a steeply-pitched field of boulders and ledges appropriately named Kill the Banker. The butterflies in my stomach transform into bats. I’ve skied exactly once since my son was born five years ago, and that was at Camp Fortune in Gatineau, Que., which tops out at 360 metres. The last time I skied a big mountain was when I lived in Alberta, 15 years ago. 

Meggs does her best to put my mind at ease: despite its reputation, Revelstoke has plenty of easy and intermediate terrain. Off the gondola, we make our way to the Stellar Chair, the resort’s shortest lift and the perfect jumping-off point for some gentle warm-up runs. My nerves dissipate with my first few turns and I quickly remember why I have loved this sport since stepping into my first pair of boots. 

Mt. Cartier seen from the top of Revelstoke Mountain Resort. (Photo: Destination BC/Andrew Strain)
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Skiing The Last Spike, an easy trail at Revelstoke Mountain Resort. (Photo: Laura Meggs)
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The sky is a cloudless blue and the air is scented with the lichen-draped pines that crowd the slopes. My freshly-waxed rental skis fly over the sun-softened snow and for a moment, I’m 11 years old again, bombing down a southern Ontario slope, intoxicated with speed and cold and freedom. Later, brushing up on the local ski history at the Revelstoke Museum and Archives, I come across a magazine article from 1900 that describes the thrill of downhill skiing as “the wine of the wind” and think yes, exactly that

We don’t linger at Stellar; instead, we head over to the Ripper Chair, which offers long, groomed greens and blues and an eye-popping view of the Mount Mackenzie peak. Higher still, the Stoke Chair delivers us to a ridge just below the sub-peak. Across the Columbia River valley, the glaciated Monashee peaks are blinding white in the morning sun. Even here, where thrill-seekers hike the last 100 metres to drop into one of Revy’s famous bowls, a green trail winds its way down the mountainside in a series of dizzying switchbacks. In winter, you can ski The Last Spike — named for the 1885 completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway at nearby Craigellachie — from sub-peak to base, a quad-shredding 15 kilometres in all. Today, due to the dwindling spring snow pack, we can go only as far as the gondola top, about a third of the way. 

Back at Mackenzie Outpost for lunch, families and friends lounge in deck chairs or sprawl on the snow, soaking up the sun and the view. Whiskeyjacks swoop overhead, hoping to snatch a morsel from an inattentive diner. Over juicy burgers and a pound of fries, Meggs and I recap the morning and I confess my surprise and relief that the terrain was so approachable. Meggs says that’s by design; over the past five years, the resort has deliberately created a progressive zone around the gondola where people can learn the basics of skiing or boarding, working their way from the magic carpet and bunny slope to the Stellar Chair and beyond. “It’s a super welcoming environment for people who are coming out for the first time — or if they’re coming from Ontario,” she says with a smirk. 

After we part ways, I head back to the Ripper Chair and ski until my legs are screaming for mercy. Then, it’s into the hot tub and an early night to recover my strength. I have a feeling I’m going to need it.

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The butterflies in my stomach transform into bats.

Learning the basics of snowboarding at Revelstoke Mountain Resort. The resort has deliberately created a progressive zone around the gondola where total beginners like me can hone their technique before hitting the real slopes. (Photo: Mike Masongsong)
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I wake with a kink in my lower back and my stomach in knots, again. I guzzle coffee, twist my hair into a French braid that I hope makes me look sporty and nonchalant, and pull on the padded shorts. Then I head down to the gondola to meet Mike Masongsong, my snowboarding instructor.

Masongsong has a quiet confidence that instantly puts me at ease. Like almost everyone I’ve met whose work revolves around the mountain, Masongsong was not born and raised in Revelstoke, but came here in search of a rush that the less vertiginous topography of eastern Canada could no longer deliver.

“There’s no limit to how much you can challenge yourself at Revy,” he tells me. “There’s always a steeper pitch, more trees, more moguls.” (Do with this information what you will, dear reader.)

I confess that this is to be my first-ever snowboarding lesson, my way of giving the middle finger to middle age.

“Snowboarding is a young person’s sport,” he muses with a smile.  

And yet, over the next three hours, I manage to learn the basics, progressing from pushing the board into a glide on flat ground — a bit like skateboarding, minus the wheels — to grinding slowly down the bunny slope on the back edge of the board to executing somewhat graceful turns with both feet in the bindings. As I grow more confident, Masongsong coaches me to lower my centre of gravity and keep my eyes on where I want to go. Every muscle in my body is engaged as I control my descent; it feels good to push myself physically in a way that my desk job and the demands of parenting rarely allow.

Our lesson concludes with my fastest and best run yet — and my most spectacular wipeout, a hard faceplant that almost knocks the wind out of me and makes me wish I’d invested in wrist guards in addition to the padded shorts. But nothing can wipe the grin from my face, especially when Masongsong tells me I did better than the average beginner.

This could be you at Revelstoke Mountain Resort, if you’re not a total noob like me. (Photo: Destination BC/Ryan Creary)
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A smile of relief after making it through the fog to the gondola top.
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On my final morning in Revelstoke, I swap my board for skis and ascend the mountain alone. My muscles, unused to such punishment, have ossified overnight and I move with all the smoothness of a reanimated corpse, but I need to taste the “wine of the wind” just one more time.

The sub-peak is wreathed in fog and a steady drizzle is turning the snow as heavy and malleable as Play-Doh. I have to work twice as hard to execute my turns. And when the drizzle turns to thick, wet snow that drops the visibility to zero, what pops into my head is a popular audio track on Instagram Reels, featuring a sardonic voice rhythmically chanting: “I like to do this. This is fun. This is fun and I like to do it!”

The words become sort of a mantra as I pizza my way down The Last Spike, praying I won’t veer into a glade or hit a mogul. When the gondola top finally looms out of the fog, I let out all my breath in an audible sigh of relief. A man in a bright orange jacket who lapped me at least once on the trail pulls alongside me and quips, “You really gave up on that one, eh?”

I could choose to be offended, but stepping out of my skis and onto the gondola doesn’t feel like giving up. It feels like my own personal victory over the fears that have kept me from appreciating the gifts of 40: courage, competence, and the wisdom to know that when both are lacking, it’s time to call it a day.

On the way down, I think about something Masongsong told me the day before: “It’s kind of like a Neverland here; people come and they never really grow old.”

Perhaps it’s something in that crisp, invigorating mountain air. Or, just maybe, age is only a number after all.

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