People & Culture

Exceeding expectations on Canada’s tallest peak

Ice core scientist and alpine climber Alison Criscitiello discusses her record-breaking expedition to Mt. Logan

  • Dec 23, 2024
  • 1,522 words
  • 7 minutes
Alison Criscitiello, Director of the Canadian Ice Core Lab at the University of Alberta, holds a length of ice core. (Photo: © National Geographic/Leo Hoorn)
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Few places on Earth are as inhospitable as the summit of Mt. Logan, the highest mountain in Canada and the second-highest in North America. Standing at 5,959 metres tall, this remote landscape is notorious for its challenging terrain, harsh conditions and tent-burying storms, with wind speeds of up to 160 kilometres per hour. But for glaciologist and climber Alison Criscitiello, this place was home for 16 days in June 2022.

Glaciologist and ice core scientist, Alison Criscitiello, leads a team of six other scientists to the summit plateau of Mount Logan, Canada’s highest peak, during the Rolex and National Geographic Mount Logan Expedition.(Photo: © National Geographic/Leo Hoorn)
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It took Criscitiello and her six-person team 10 days to climb to Mt. Logan’s summit, with a mission to extract a 250-metre-deep ice core from this unique area with undisturbed icy layers. This ice could then be used to look back in time, searching for climate change clues through history: the Industrial Revolution, the invention of cars, the presence of wildfires and the change of glaciers over time are but a few of the events that can be tracked through the ice. As the climate warms, valuable climate records like these are lost. That’s why Mt. Logan’s ice cores are so unique: researchers estimate these icy layers to be 20 to 30 thousand years old.

Not only did the team complete their mission, but they exceeded expectations, extracting a 327-metre ice core and breaking the record for the deepest non-polar ice core in the world. About half of the ice core will be archived for future generations, while the remaining ice will be analyzed to better understand climate change impacts on the region. 

The team’s story was captured in the documentary For Winter, which premiered in October this year. Cristiciello spoke with Canadian Geographic about their expedition, the film and why this work is vital for the future.

On ice core surprises

We had anticipated the age of this core to be thousands of years [old], and that was based on an old record that was drilled in the area. What I can say scientifically at this point, which is the bomb, is that it’s a lot younger than we anticipated. I don’t know the bottom age, but that 256 metres we’ve identified as the Katmai eruption — we found tephra in it, and that’s from 1912. So, a lot younger than [what] the old record from that region indicated. That immediately threw into question the old record because there’s such a discrepancy in the age scales. This is quite shocking. Usually, when something is very surprising, like this, it’s actually more impactful, and that has proven to be the case.

On the future of the ice cores

Part of the power in that is that I don’t know. Science is always evolving, so what we can use that really precious material for is changing. But a lot of it has to do with what we are capable of analytically. Even compared to 10 years ago, we are using a fraction of the amount of sample for making the same measurements; we can do so much more with that same little bit of water, but that is the general principle. These cores take a lot of money, energy and fuel to drill, and we don’t want to just use them up; we want to save them. 

Half the ice is here; we’ve used just over half of it. I have no idea what that is going to be used for in the next five or ten years; I can’t even imagine. My guess is some of it will actually be used to study emerging contaminants. 

A close-up image of layers within an ice core, collected from Mount Logan, Canada’s highest peak, by Alison Criscitiello. (Photo: © National Geographic/Leo Hoorn)
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On why now

It’s unbelievably timely. The goals of the film, which got hit out of the park by the team, are based around staying in the climate change fight — particularly right now, at this unbelievably critical moment in terms of our world’s climate. The other half of it is about diversifying the scientists, voices and people who are in that fight because diverse groups do better science. That’s also why [the film] became more about all of me and not just my science. The piece about training more women in STEM and diversifying these hard sciences, in general, is critical. 

On why she does what she does 

I now do it because I have two little girls in this world. I found this niche little area of science and of the world that I think I have just the right kind of strange dual background to accomplish. I think that it’s so important to reconstruct these climate records from very hard-to-get-to places where we have knowledge gaps. And the non-polar high-mountain regions in the world are like the ocean to me — it’s just this huge, undiscovered part of our knowledge in terms of climate records. It’s hard to get there and it’s hard to do, but I naturally like doing hard things, physically and otherwise, and I think I have found this little area where I can excel.  

Before I had kids — they are one and six now — I was still passionate about these impact pieces I talked about, diversifying the fields that I’m in and trying to retain hope and fire during this critical time in terms of our Earth’s climate.

Alison Criscitiello gears up in her tent on the summit plateau of Mount Logan in Canada during the Rolex and National Geographic Perpetual Planet Mount Logan Expedition. (Photo: © National Geographic/Leo Hoorn
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On the power of platform

I live in a liberal bubble, I’m queer, and I think part of the power of this particular platform — having a Nat Geo film telling this kind of story — is that it reaches an enormous audience that is actually quite different from my normal one. So it’s been amazing to get this feedback from people who identify with some piece of me as the character, and in some ways, I am even more excited to hear from people who are very different from me.

On being a woman in male-dominated spaces

In terms of mountaineering, I’m not sure it’s actually changed very much, particularly with high-altitude climbing. I remember saying, as a 20-year-old climbing ranger in the States, that the higher you go, the less women you find, and that is still the case. I am still generally the only woman. 

When I was a climbing ranger and a guide, before I went back to grad school for what I do now, it was really hard. I was the first female climbing ranger in Olympic National Park. I worked only with men. I was judged all the time by the people I was helping. And the same was true as I started guiding. I never had a female client. When I was guiding a climb on Aconcagua, I went to pick up these three big American guys from the Mendoza Airport, and it was so hard. They were like, “You’re the guide?” just because they looked at me — I’m a small woman. And that particular trip was pretty transformative. They had complete 180’s within about a week, and we had amazing conversations about their initial judgment and that was something I will never forget. 

Those years were very hard. I felt very alone. And I would say that’s generally true in my little field of science, but I’ve seen more leaps in my academic field than I have in high-altitude mountaineering in the last decade. There’s a long way to go in both spaces.

On her next big adventure

The next [ice core] deep-drilling project that I am co-leading with [alongside a team from] Denmark is on Axel Heiberg Island in the Canadian High Arctic. I will be gone for about two and a half months in the spring. I’ve drilled ice cores on the eastern edge of the archipelago along Baffin Bay on Ellesmere and Devon Islands, just across Baffin Bay from Greenland, and this will be the first time that anyone has gone to that Arctic Ocean edge to drill a surface to bedrock core. It’s an ice cap just over 600 metres, which is phenomenal for a tiny island. We anticipate something like a 10,000-year climate record and, in this case, probably new information about Arctic Ocean variability that hasn’t been captured by these Baffin Bay Eastern Archipelago cores. 

On teaching youth

There are 300 ice core scientists in the world, and usually, especially if I have younger groups, they have never even thought about this before. Like, people are doing what? There’s a world of scientists doing things that you didn’t even know was going on right now is very empowering. I can see it from kids who are seeing something new for the first time and then I can feel it myself when I realize they didn’t even know someone like me existed. 

On what gives her hope for the future

To be honest, the younger generation gives me hope. The Greta Thunbergs, or kids like her, truly gives me an enormous amount of hope. The work that I do with Girls on Ice Canada, which is related to supporting that generation, gives me an unbelievable amount of hope. The younger generation is speaking very loudly, and I find it incredibly motivating. 

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