Travel
The Essential Itinerary: Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
Discover the soul of the Maritimes on a three-day journey of wildlife encounters, Celtic traditions and coastal adventures
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It’s Thursday at the Whale House in downtown Sydney, N.S., and Rocio De La Cruz and Alberto Montalvo are selling out of ceviche. Made with locally caught pollock and haddock, the tangy Peruvian fish dish is a stalwart of “Peruvian Buzz.” De La Cruz says “it makes us happy when Latin people come in and tell us we are giving them a flavour memory of home, but we sell just as much to locals; they love the food.”
The Whale House serves as a pop-up bistro where aspiring entrepreneurs like De La Cruz and Montalvo take over the kitchen one day per week, with newcomers to Canada serving everything from spicy and smoky jollof rice from Nigeria and pillowy Ukrainian perogies to steaming bowls of hearty Vietnamese phở. Part incubator, part community hub, the Whale House has been operating as a social enterprise since December 2024.
The Whale House is one of several initiatives spearheaded by the Multicultural Association of Cape Breton, a grassroots, volunteer-run organization dedicated to “ethnocultural community development in Unama’ki Cape Breton.” Co-founder Ocean Le is the association’s vice-president, and though he’s hardly a newcomer — his family moved from Saigon, Vietnam, to Manitoba and then Toronto when he was a small child — he is a recent arrival in Sydney, having moved here during COVID-19. It didn’t take long for him to fall for this relatively rural city by the sea. One big reason was its cultural diversity. Sydney’s population is just under 31,000, but it is culturally diverse and has been for more than a century. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, immigrants came to work in Cape Breton’s coal mines and steel plants; these days, they come to study at Cape Breton University, which enrolls thousands of international students from over 70 different countries. Many of these students want to stay, captivated by the sense of community and opportunities the city offers.
The first event the association held was a multicultural market. “We had an amazing turnout with so much local support. We learned that a lot of newcomers wanted to cook, but it was hard without access to a commercial kitchen,” Le explains. “As a board, we thought, what can we do?” They found the perfect downtown property and established the Whale House. “It really took off and has allowed our vendors to be leaders in their community. We’re helping them to cook their food, but really we are selling the stories behind it that help build community,” says Le.
One of the original vendors, Pam Steele, has moved from selling Greek food out of the Whale House one day a week to opening her own restaurant, Pam’s Kitchen, where regulars rave about her juicy souvlaki and addictive lemon potatoes. “I’ve worked in other people’s kitchens for 51 years,” Steele says, “but the support at the Whale House was incredible; it honestly broke my heart to leave. They did so much marketing and promotion that I just couldn’t keep up with demand. So, I thought, maybe I should have my own spot.” De La Cruz and Montalvo are thinking about starting a food truck, thanks to the confidence they’ve gained through the Whale House.
In August 2025, the Multicultural Association of Cape Breton took over the restaurant at Sydney’s international airport, bringing the Whale House vibe to visitors. They re-imagined the disused space as Home at YQY with the same rotating schedule of vendors — Peruvian Buzz is there on Saturdays. “Operating at the airport has been fantastic,” says Le. “The airport goes from this kind of barren wasteland to this vibrant, welcoming space.”
Being part of the Whale House has been huge for many newcomers and, De La Cruz says, helped them feel more at home in Sydney. “Food is community,” she says, “And what I enjoy most about all of this is seeing people enjoying our food and bringing their dishes back clean!”
This story is from the May/June 2026 Issue
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