Kids
The last day in Cape Breton
This spring, Parks Canada and Canadian Geographic collaborated to award a grade-eight class from Caronport, Sask.,
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A flash of deep orange darts past on my morning walk along the windswept cliffs of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, my fourth fox sighting in just two days. Not even an hour later, a bull moose emerges from the forest and by mid-morning, I’m watching dozens of pilot whales arc through the waters off Pleasant Bay, N.S. It’s not often you spot a parade of wildlife before 10 a.m., but in Cape Breton, these encounters are part of the rhythm of the day.
Canada’s Celtic soul (and arguably Nova Scotia’s crown jewel), Cape Breton is widely known for the scenic 298-kilometre Cabot Trail, winding through lush highlands and dramatic coastlines. But there is so much more to this island of whales and fiddles than just breathtaking scenery.
Often hailed as one of the Maritimes’ most picturesque destinations, Cape Breton is found on the northeastern tip of Nova Scotia, where Celtic music spills out of community halls and fresh-caught seafood is showcased on every menu. Whether hiking cliffside trails, kayaking sheltered bays or exploring quaint coastal towns, it’s this mix of nature, culture and warmth that draws travellers back again and again.
Maritime hospitality welcomed me to Cabot Cape Breton, a globally recognized golf resort celebrated for its fiery sunsets and sweeping horizons in the town of Inverness. Known to many as a bucket-list destination for golfers, Cabot is also much more.
Without even whacking a golf ball, my visit to one of Canada’s top islands proved that Cabot is more than a golfer’s paradise; it’s a launchpad for adventure. Each day began with wildlife sightings and ended with coastal sunsets, plus time in between for highland hikes, seaside drives and whale-filled waters. For travellers, it’s a place to soak in the essence of Cape Breton while knowing a warm welcome waits at day’s end.
Everyone knows that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. But ahead of a jam-packed schedule of adventure, breakfast is essential. Overlooking Cabot Links’ 18th hole, Panorama Restaurant serves up an eclectic array of drool-worthy meals, from apple streusel oatmeal made with poached Nova Scotia apples, to a savoury plate of black pudding, molasses baked beans and sourdough with the Cape Breton breakfast. Looking for something more? Head to the breakfast buffet, where guests can make their own waffles, choose from a selection of fresh fruits and enjoy an endless amount of home fries.
Winding through forests, fields and stretches of rugged shoreline, Cabot Cape Breton’s guided Side-by-Side tour provides guests with a taste of the region’s wilder side. Going up to 80km/hr, the two three-seater ATVs take travellers along the Celtic Shores Trail, a 92-kilometre trail that stretches from Port Hastings to Inverness. With quintessential views of the region’s rolling hills and coastline, this adventure is perfect for families or small groups. Customizable in length and start time, this experience allows guests to immerse themselves in the sights, sounds and salty air of Cape Breton at their own pace, no golf clubs required.
Silhouetted against a backdrop of orange and pink skies, a bagpiper stands atop the 18th green of Cabot Links, serenading guests with traditional Celtic tunes. Each Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, the short performance begins 20 minutes before sunset, blending tradition and scenery for curious listeners. Drinks are swapped out for cameras as guests and Inverness gather to capture a taste of Cape Breton’s Celtic heritage. Whether you’ve spent the day on the trail, watching wildlife, or simply relaxing at the resort, the bagpipes provide a serene, cultural capstone to any evening.
“Are you looking for speed?” the woman behind the counter at Cabot Trail Guaranteed Whale Adventures asks. “If so, you’ll want the zodiac. Guests get eye-level with the whales.” Run out of a lighthouse-style shack in Pleasant Bay, this family-owned tour company has built its reputation on a nearly perfect success rate. With eight departures daily (four on zodiacs and four on the “big-boat”), Guaranteed Whale Adventures promises sightings of pilot, finback, minke, or humpback whales, as well as dolphins, seals, and seabirds. On the rare occasion that whales don’t appear, every guest receives a free pass to return. Just an hour and a half north of Cabot Cape Breton, this adventure is a thrilling way to start a day of Maritime adventure.
Cape Breton Highlands National Park boasts a network of more than 26 marked trails, ranging from short, 10-minute walks, such as the 0.3-kilometre Freshwater Lake Look-Off, to multi-hour treks with steep climbs, like the Aspy Trail. And that’s just the beginning; dozens of unofficial paths, loops and boardwalks also crisscross the park. Most visitors are familiar with the Skyline trail, one of the most photographed hikes in Nova Scotia, but beyond the brochures lie quieter routes that reveal a wilder side of the island. Blueberry Mountain, for instance, climbs gently toward sweeping coastal views, minus the crowds. Whether you’re after a short stroll or a sweaty summit, Cape Breton has you covered.
A visit to Cape Breton isn’t complete without a proper seafood feast, and Coore’s Lobster Shack delivers it in style. Housed in a recently refurbished barn, this casual and charming barn by Cabot Cliffs serves up iconic island fare: steaming lobster, fresh oysters, crab dip, and all the classic fixings; think creamy coleslaw, buttered corn, and warm rolls. For the ultimate experience, order the Cabot Boil, where guests can choose their protein (or veg) and enjoy it with more than half a dozen hearty accompaniments. Whether you opt for a lobster roll on the patio or go all in on a full boil, Coore’s is as much a taste of Cape Breton as the salt air itself.
Whether you prefer to watch the sunrise from the comfort of your bed or with the Atlantic at your feet, Cape Breton delivers some spectacular mornings. A walk along the beach at dawn brings a rare stillness – the sound of the surf, the glow on the horizon, the cool sand underfoot. If you’re feeling brave, a dip in the ocean will wake you up faster than any coffee (just be mindful of rip currents). Of course, not everyone needs to set an alarm to find peace. Quiet moments from the luxury of Cabot Cape Breton’s Lodge Rooms or Golf Villas are just as rewarding. Simply being still and easing into the day is sometimes the best way to soak it all in (pun intended).
As travellers, it’s easy to admire Cape Breton for its natural beauty, but understanding the deeper stories is just as important. At Eskasoni Cultural Journeys on Goat Island (a small wooded island on the Bras d’Or Lakes), cultural interpreter Steve Julian reminds visitors that “language is identity.” Along a 2.4-kilometre trail, Julian is one of several interpreters who showcase a series of Mi’kmaq traditions, including song and dance, storytelling and hands-on activities. Home to the largest Mi’kmaq community in the world, Eskasoni First Nation is a place where visitors are welcomed to learn and experience vibrant culture firsthand.
A good old classic pub is sometimes the best way to end a day. Located adjacent to Cabot Links, Whit’s Public House is the place to go for lively banter, upscale pub food, music and drinks. Well-known for their pizzas, which include all the classics like pepperoni, funghi and Mediterranean, Whit’s also serves up mouth-watering fish and chips, complete with Nova Scotia halibut and Alexander Keith’s beer batter. For Cabot staff, Whit’s is a favourite for after-work drinks, and for guests, it’s a hub to regather and reflect on an action-packed day.
Cabot Links opened its doors in 2012, followed by its sister course, Cabot Cliffs, in 2015 (both located in Inverness). Together, the two make up Cabot Cape Breton. Since opening in the Maritimes, the world-class golf collection has expanded globally, with courses in Norway, France, Saint Lucia, the U.S. and Scotland, with plans to expand further in Canada. Nova Scotia’s Cabot Cape Breton offers a series of rooms, with The Lodge at Cabot Links being the most popular accommodation option. Designed by Susan Fitzgerald, an award-winning Nova Scotia architect and interior designer, Alexandra Angle, The Lodge features 72 rooms, from the Cabot Double to the Deluxe King.
Crafted with modern influence and timeless elegance, each room features high-end amenities, ensuring a memorable stay for every visitor. For guests seeking something a bit more, the Golf Villas overlooking Cabot Links feature full-sized kitchens, expansive living areas, and a favourite feature: outdoor fireplaces. Designed by architect Omar Gandhi, the open design allows guests to fully appreciate the iconic Cape Breton landscape.
Just a short three-minute drive down the road, Cabot Cliffs offers a series of larger accommodations, from the Cliffs Residences (four and five-bedroom) and the Hillside Homes (two and three-bedroom) to the Dunes Cottages, which overlook one of Canada’s top golf courses.
Yes, most people visit Cabot Cape Breton for its world-renowned golf and the opportunity to play alongside some of the country’s most picturesque landscapes. However, days can easily be filled without even setting foot on the course. Peak season runs from July to September, with up to 80 room arrivals a day and guests staying an average of three nights. Outside of golf, archery, axe throwing, fly-fishing, kayaking, biking, tennis and, of course, hiking, are only some of the other activities for guests who don’t fancy whacking a little white ball around grass.
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