Travel
Skip the summer crowds and discover why this central Ontario town is just as iconic in the colder months
Ontario’s most celebrated cottage country has a secret.
In the summer, crowds flock to Muskoka — kayaks and paddleboards are taken out of hibernation, Muskoka chairs are dusted off, and lakeside cottages come to life after a quiet winter. But for true Muskokans (those who live in the area year-round), winter showcases more than just leisure activities and beautiful landscapes.
When snow falls in Muskoka, the region transforms into a frosty wonderland, creating what some consider a quintessential Canadian winter.
Sometimes referred to as the “Hamptons of the North” or “Malibu of the North,” Muskoka is more than just idyllic lakefront cottage life; the lacework of small towns, villages and hamlets in and around these storied lakes is something else altogether — a tight-knit, true-northern year-round community that comes to life when the cottagers of summer go home. I should know, I’m a fourth-generation cottager on these lakes.
However, it wasn’t until two years ago when I moved from Caledon to Bracebridge, nestled around the Muskoka River, that I discovered a small-town winter wonderland off the lakes — one that “townies” (like me) adore. For certain, we don’t just endure winter up here. We revel in it.
Muskoka in summer seems hard to beat, but here are 10 ways locals embrace our gorgeous cottage country when the snow flies.
Muskoka winters are far from sleepy. Throughout the off-season (late fall through early spring), communities like Bracebridge host winter festivals, from Bala’s Cranberry Festival in the fall to Gravenhurst, Dorset, Port Carling, Huntsville, and Baysville. Of course, I’m partial to Bracebridge’s Fire & Ice Festival. For the past two years, my family and I have helped load kids (and adults) onto inner tubes, before launching them down the steep, snow-covered main drag of Bracebridge — a kid-like joy that everyone shares. To prepare for the event, local excavators haul in more than 65 truckloads of pristine snow, then remove it in just 24 hours, leaving the frequent Hallmark holiday movie set looking as if nothing had happened. “This convoy of truckers and what they accomplish in less than a day is truly a sight to behold,” says Tracy Larkman, Bracebridge’s Business Improvement Area Manager and Chair of Fire & Ice. Totally weird, raucous and fabulous.
Tip: Purchase tickets ahead of time online for this year’s festival on January 31st.
On a sweltering July day, there is nothing better than a cold, icy beverage. But a hot cocoa with marshmallows is equally beguiling while huddling around an outdoor fire pit. With a warm drink in hand, there’s nothing better than admiring the frozen panorama from a cozy cottage.
Many cottage rentals are winterized, equipped to withstand a Canadian winter. A sprawling luxury cottage on Muskoka’s big three lakes is perfect for multi-generational get-togethers. The notion of a cozy snowmobile-access cabin for quiet romantic escapes is a draw for many, but options abound. Some rentals can be stocked with produce ahead of arrival, or for something a little extra luxurious, hire a local Michelin-trained chef and take cooking off the to-do list. Local experts at Jayne’s Luxury Rentals offer a wide, locally curated selection of rentals. Alternatively, Grand historic hotels like Windemere House, aka “The Lady of the Lake,” harken back to Muskoka’s first Victorian-era visitors — a vivid window into Muskoka’s heritage, yet with all the modern comforts and luxuries, and, as I found, a gracious, festive spot to ring in the New Year.
Winter in Algonquin Park is quiet, but it is also the perfect time to explore the frozen wilderness. A road trip along Highway 60 in mid-January is worth the 30-minute drive west past Huntsville. Make no mistake, the park is far from closed to visitors at this time.
You can winter camp in Canada’s oldest provincial park, but for those who prefer creature comforts, the park rents roofed accommodations, such as yurts and cabins. Blanketed with a wintry hush, Algonquin also offers discovery programs led by park naturalists, as well as endless snowshoeing routes for wildlife viewing, and 72 kilometres of groomed cross-country skiing trails. In Huntsville, Algonquin Outfitters can set you up for fat biking or cross-country skiing.
Tip: Make park reservations online in advance
Founded in 1950 by the Johnston family, Muskoka Lakes Farm and Winery is one of Ontario’s first cranberry bogs. Three generations later, the family is still all about their berries. Beginning just after Christmas, the farm’s 1.2-kilometre skating track lights up with 400 tiki torches for what they call “Light Up the Night” every Saturday evening (weather permitting). Day skating is available during all-day visits.
Opening night this past season was perfect — cold, clear, stars out, truly otherworldly winter moment. While skating along this glowing path into the darkness, only the sounds of skate blades break the chilled silence. And in the far reaches of the track, fire pits warm frigid hands, followed by a mug of hot mulled wine from the cafe.
“Team Cranberry, that’s who we are, and we are a pretty cohesive group,” says Lesley Commandant, the team’s customer relations manager. Commandant’s team also includes Wendy Hogarth, Murray Johnston, North Johnston, as well as three other managers, including Lesley, and additional help from the Johnston’s three youngest sons. “It all started about 10 years ago after the ritual of flooding the cranberry beds to protect the plants in winter, “says Commandant. “When [the lake] froze over, the boys decided to take out an ATV toting 1000 litres of water, which they then dropped on the flooded bog to create a skating rink.” And the rest is history.
Muskoka Lakes Farm and Winery is open year-round (except Christmas Day and Boxing Day). Arrowhead Provincial Park in Huntsville is another local skating option — think frozen forest bathing on two blades.
The drug of the tug knows no season up here. And locals know it’s fully winter when it’s safe for ice fishing huts on the lakes. Local Muskoka guides like owner/operator Darren Scott at Muskoka Stay N’ Play Tours know all the best secret fishing holes for lake trout, pickerel, pike, herring, whitefish and ling, whatever your preference.
“Eighty per cent of our clientele has never done ice fishing before, so our specialty is guided tours, introducing people who haven’t got a clue what to do,” says Scott. The guides show the depths to fish, how to set the hooks, and how to use the auger to drill a hole in the ice. We teach enough that even within a half day, guests may have the know-how to go out some time on their own,” he says. “My biggest thrill, and I think for all of our guides, is the camaraderie that builds within each group, and seeing the look on people’s faces the very first time they pull up a fish.”
Secret fishing holes, guides, ear, augers, drilled holes, time-tested fishing techniques, heated huts, bait and even fun distractions for impatient little ones, all included.
Snowmobiles and snowy tree-lined trails are found throughout Muskoka, making it easy to forget you’re only two hours from Toronto.
With more than 1,000 kilometres of groomed snowmobile trails, all maintained by local volunteers, and linking the northern and southern parts of the province, Muskoka is the place to snowmobile.
If you’re unfamiliar with the area or aren’t an experienced rider, guided tours are your best bet, conveniently also offered by Muskoka Stay N’ Play Tours. “We start off with a lesson, go over the machines, all the safety features, what to do and not do, and things to look out for,” says Scott. “Then, we head off, going at the group’s pace, which means as fast as the slowest person. But with two or three guides for a larger group, we can split up into faster and slower sledders — we wanna make sure that everybody’s enjoying the experience,” explains Darren, again, of Muskoka Stay N’ Play Tours. “We also know all the trails like the back of our hands, so we anticipate where the conditions are best on any one day. That’s important.” Deerhurst Resort also offers guided outings for all experience levels.
For decades, I’d driven straight past the striking landscapes of the Canadian Shield, headed surgically to my marina, then into my ‘66 cutter to boat over to my island. But just before our first Bracebridge Christmas, one of our new neighbours invited me to strap on snowshoes.
There’s nothing like making first tracks on a trail, following an inky black river, passing by a frozen waterfall, under towering snow-laden white pines and past Muskoka’s iconic granite outcrops. I was awestruck by this vast winter world beyond the lakes and by the number of locals who know that winter is the best time to explore it all. Plus, no bugs!
Tip: Discover Muskoka offers a range of trail options, gear rental outlets, and practical tips, from weather awareness to trail etiquette.
For a break from the cold, consider a craft brewery tour. Don’t worry — there are plenty of local suds to sample: Lake of Bays, Clear Lake near Bala, Sawdust in Gravenhurst, and Canvas and Huntsville Brewhouse, just to name a few.
Driverseat Muskoka Beer Tours offers a chauffeur-driven experience for groups of six. “They’re very popular for bachelor and bachelorette parties, birthday celebrations and just groups of friends of any age who want a fun outing,” says Scott Taylor, owner-operator of Driversseat Muskoka. “Standard brewery tours last about six hours and take in about four breweries, but we can extend the time if requested.” It’s an ideal service for any group without a designated driver, but particularly recommended for our American visitors, as this is real beer up here.
When opting for small-town life, one might expect a serious narrowing of dining-out options, particularly during winters in a “seasonal” community. To my delight, that wasn’t the case in Muskoka. Visitors can dine by an outdoor fire pit at the Muskoka Brewery or in a cozy chalet for four at the Tall Trees Restaurant Muskoka in Huntsville. (Note: specials at Tall Trees sell out, so get an early sitting)
The Muskoka Ice Caves at the JW Marriott on Lake Rosseau are heated geodesic domes, affectionately named Snowflake and Crystal, and feature fire-lit private settings for up to six guests, complete with blankets. “The Muskoka Ice Caves are more than dining; they are an intimate celebration of winter’s beauty, where warmth and culinary artistry converge to create unforgettable moments,” says Didier Dolivet, Managing Director at JW Marriott Muskoka.
Catherine O’Hara and Martin Short are regulars at Crossroads in the little village of Rosseau. Another personal favourite is the prime rib at the Old Station Inn, and the local live music and pub fare at The Griffin, both in Bracebridge.
Each summer, I ring my great-grandmother’s handbell when Canada’s oldest operating steamship passes through our deep-water channel, just off our island’s rocky shoreline. The Segwun’s captain most often gives us a couple of toots of his steam whistle, while his passengers wave. Happily, such historic vessels of summer on these lakes are accessible in winter as well.
While the Segwun rests battened down for winter at the Muskoka Wharf in Gravenhurst, the nearby Muskoka Steamships & Discovery Centre is open for business year-round. This Canadian epicentre of antique boats and lake steamers is home to legendary builders like Greavette, Minett, Duke, and Ditchburn. Next door, the Grace and Speed Boathouse is a must-see in winter. With stylish, powerful crafts carefully lifted onto beams inside the boathouse, visitors get an up-close look at each boat’s detailed wooden hulls and elegant deck lines. Local private owners lend their prized boats to the museum, and with boats rotating regularly, the museum is always worth a return visit.
For more information, visit Discover Muskoka — Things To Do In Winter.
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