Travel
The Essential Itinerary: Western Quebec
A six-day tour designed to hit some of the highlights of western Quebec during the most colourful time of the year
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- 6 minutes
Travel
The Essential Itinerary: Quebec City with kids
Ease into European travel with this three-day tour through Canada’s family-friendly France dupe
- Jul 29, 2024
- 1,282 words
- 6 minutes
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On a lengthy layover in Paris last Summer, my family spent one full day strolling through the “City of Light,” where we consumed crumbly croissants, eyed the Eiffel Tower, and sailed along the Seine before heading back home. Eager to experience a more extended European escape (and satisfy her croissant cravings), my 10-year-old daughter asked if we could revisit the famed French city again this past May.
I wasn’t prepared for the price tag during peak season in Paris, so instead, I took her to Quebec City, one of Canada’s oldest European settlements. Quaint cafes, cobblestone streets, French colonial architecture, and the same “joie de vivre” that makes families flock to France during the warmer months were sure to satisfy. In Summer, this French-speaking city in the Great White North feels more like a vibrant village in the north of France, with historic sites and French-inspired bites that make for the perfect Paris-like escape–croissants included.
For those interested in an affordable alternative to far-flung France, here’s where to stay, eat, and play on a three-day visit to Quebec City with kids during the summer.
Day 1
9 a.m. | Sweet bites & historic sites
Kick off your first morning with a taste of traditional Quebecois cuisine at La Bûche, a casual eatery in a festive setting in the centre of Old Quebec. Reminiscent of an old sugar shack (a small wooden house in the forest built for making maple syrup), you’ll find everything here from pea soup and pork rinds to maple crêpes and meat pies. Want to try it all? Brave “The Big One” brunch plate, which has a bit of everything. Plus, maple taffy on snow is served all year long!
Walk it off with a stroll along Rue St-Louis, and pop into the shops as you work your way towards St. Louis Gate–one of the entry points through the fortified walls surrounding Old Quebec City, North America’s only walled city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Then, find your way to Morrin Centre, a hidden site steeped in history. A nationally-recognized heritage site, the 200-year-old building was originally home to one of the first prisons in Quebec. A guided tour will take you through some of the jail cells that remain intact. Today, the building houses one of the world’s most beautiful libraries, once visited by notables such as Charles Dickens. As the oldest subscription library in Canada, it houses books from the 16th Century, the rarest dating back half a millennium.
1 p.m. | Fun feats & pretty streets
Take “Breakneck Steps” down to rue de Petit-Champlain, Canada’s most beautiful street and the oldest commercial street in North America (recently recognized as the only Canadian city street on a list of the world’s most beautiful streets by Architectural Digest). Here, narrow cobblestone alleys, colourful architecture, beautiful boutiques, and a slew of charming cafes will keep you entertained all afternoon.
Ready to head back to your room? Skip scaling the steep steps and take the historic Le Funiculaire back to Dufferin Terrace in Upper Town instead. Since 1879, the cable railway system has been a meaningful mode of transportation in Old Quebec City. While it’s a short trip, it’s worth taking a ride at least once during your stay.
6 p.m. | Bistro brews & bird’s eye views
Hopefully, you’ve saved some room for dinner because you’ll want to bring your appetite to this dining destination in the sky. At Ciel! Bistro-Bar, a revolving restaurant on the 28th floor of Hôtel le Concorde, 360-degree views of the city and the St. Lawrence River will keep you busy as you sip on a pint of local beer or a crafty cocktail. Enjoy classic French fare like black pudding croquette and duck magret, and be sure to finish with a sweet treat like the Île D’Orléans strawberry sabayon or classic crème brûlée. And don’t worry, for picky eaters, there’s a healthy kids menu too.
DAY 2
9 a.m. | Waterfall walk & tasting tour
Meet your guide from Concierge du Terroir and depart for a day of exploring beyond the walls of Old Quebec City in a luxury SUV. Start your private tour with a stop and stroll around the stunning Montmorency Falls. Found only 15 minutes by car from the city, this waterfall is taller than Niagara Falls and can be enjoyed from all angles. Ride the gondola to the top of the falls while taking in the surrounding landscape, then trek along the trail to a suspension bridge that dangles over the crest of the falls for a thrilling view from the top. In the upper area, you’ll find an expansive grass park and a playground–a popular spot for local families to picnic and play. When you’re ready, you can take the long, windy staircase back to the base of the falls–just be prepared to get a little wet along the way!
Next, your guide will take you across a bridge to L’Ile D’Orleans (Island of Orleans), a quiet archipelago where agritourism takes centre stage. There, you’ll see apple orchards, berry farms, and vineyards with views of the St. Lawrence River on the horizon. Sample various handmade cheeses at Fromagerie Ferme Audet and get up close with their on-site goats. Before heading back to the city, be sure to stop in at Chez Mag for arguably the best plate of poutine in the province–but don’t be basic; get the King Kus Poutine with smoked meat, special sauce, sausages, French onions, and green shallots.
6 p.m. | Fancy feast
Pop champs and celebrate a successful day spent outdoors! Since its opening in 1893, Le Champlain has been a favourite spot for fine food, and its 19th-century charm can still be seen in the delightful decor throughout the dining room in the iconic Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. With newly appointed Chef Gabriel Molleur-Langevin at the helm, the ever-changing, multi-course menu is a must. Choose from the cellar experience, discovery, and vegetarian options with dishes from Maritime oysters and Quebec elk to freshly smoked butternut pasta with Louis d’Or cheese. They even have a fancy five-course menu that little ones will love.
DAY 3
9 a.m. | Cycle the Saint-Charles
Start your day with a cycle through the city on a guided tour with Tuque & Bicycle Experiences, a woman-owned company that offers year-round biking experiences. Opt for electric bikes and blast your way through the scenic cycle paths that run along the Saint-Charles River, stopping at significant sites along the way, like the Cartier-Brébeuf National Historic Site, a spot named after Jacques Cartier, commemorating the place where he and his crew spent a cold winter.
Where to stay
Recognized as the world’s most photographed hotel, the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac is a stunning structure. Adorned in turrets, spires, and the signature Fairmont green copper roof, its architecture is reminiscent of a European castle. Inside, intricate details and lavish decor showcase the hotel’s history. At the same time, modern amenities make for a comfortable stay, with spacious rooms, cozy bedding, and a large indoor pool with a patio for sunbathing, perfect for little swimmers who live for hotel pools. If it’s within your budget, an upgrade to Fairmont Gold offers added perks like easy check-in/check-out services and complimentary breakfast in a beautiful, exclusive-access lounge.
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