Pincher Creek, the nearest service town to Waterton, is located 56 kilometres from the townsite. From here, Highway 3 takes us through a forest of soaring wind turbines, connecting to Highway 6, where the jagged skirt of the Rockies is visible thanks to our RV’s elevated sightlines. From the Parks Canada gate (where all visitors are required to purchase a permit) Waterton’s Entrance Parkway crosses a wetland valley as paved roads branch towards the mountains. Arriving in the sleepy townsite, the mountainous location immediately reminded me of Banff, minus the bustling traffic, heavy crowds and over-zealous retail. In other words, the things that always drive me crazy about the best-known destination in the Rockies. 

“We’re a little bit out the way, a one-way drive-in and out, and that puts off some people. We do receive a lot of American visitors, though,” she says, explaining the US flags flying outside stores on picturesque Waterton Avenue. Aynsley recommends some easy, family-friends hikes and points of interest and tells me how her great-grandmother worked at the town’s iconic mountain lodge when it first opened in 1927.

Regal and striking, the Prince of Wales Hotel continues to perch over Waterton to this day. During prohibition, a boat would ferry American visitors across the unguarded lake to party at the Swiss-chalet-inspired hotel. Today, the Prince of Wales still attracts guests with staggering views, making up for its lack of modern luxury with an abundance of hardwood and old-world charm. My wife and I fail miserably to teach our kids about etiquette during High Tea in the hotel’s Royal Stewart Dining Room. Fortunately, it’s an unstuffy affair: our friendly, tartan-clad server is patiently accommodating, and the view over Waterton is magical. Later, as we watch the lake glitter below pink peaks lighting up with sunset, I tell my wife this is now my favourite view in all of Canada. “Coming from you, that says a lot,” she replies, and she’s right.

It’s easy getting around the national park, even in an RV. Roads are in excellent condition, and there’s plenty of pull-through parking at the main attractions. We explore the Red Rock Parkway, breaking for views of magnificent peaks and valleys. The crystal waters and sedimentary colours of Red Rock Canyon are camera-bait, as is a short hike to the viewing platforms that overlook Blakiston Falls. The following day, we head up Akamina Parkway for a longer hike to Crandell Lake, walking along a meandering trail of rejuvenating alpine forest, low bush, and wildflowers. Baking in a heatwave, we all appreciate returning to our roadsurfer in the parking lot with its chilled drinks waiting in the fridge. The fully equipped 5-sleeper vehicle has a bathroom, a cooktop and oven, and much-appreciated air-conditioning. For those travelling light, you can also order a box of kitchen gear, soft pillows and linen. I had forgotten to fill up in Pincher Creek, but we didn’t need much gas in the park itself, and windy roads are not built for speed records. The mountain escape is aided by the fact that there’s limited cell signal throughout Waterton, including in the townsite itself. Visitors can, however access free wifi at the playground and waterpark, where kids park their bikes in the late afternoons to cool themselves off.