
Travel
Journey into New Scotland’s past
Heritage sites trade on the past, but in Nova Scotia they’re helping secure and inspire the future.
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The film ends, and a bowl of pozole appears in front of me — deep red, cradling a helping of hominy. The Mexican stew is rich, salty and tangy, with a spicy kick that doesn’t overpower. The pozole is part of the Chefs & Shorts gala at the 14th edition of the Devour! food and film festival. Five films, five chefs, five courses.
With each course inspired by a short film, this signature event is “a real perfect cross-section of everything we do, in one space,” says managing director Lia Rinaldo. The pozole is made by Edmonton chef Winnie Chen to accompany The Ballad of Tita and the Machines. The film’s LA-based co-writer Luis Antonio Aldana is in the room and says the dish “was like a fusion of Asian, Mexican…. That’s a staple dish for us, pozole. And it was delicious.”
Every October, Devour! takes over tiny Wolfville, N.S., (population: just over 5,000) with workshops, events and films. Co-founded by chef Michael Howell and Rinaldo, a film industry lifer who grew up in the restaurant business, Devour! has gone from a low-key off-shoot of the slow food movement to an international event attracting the likes of the late Anthony Bourdain.
It’s a food lover’s dream, with a side dish of films. Or a film lover’s dream, with a good helping of food.
I start my festival experience with Demystifying Olive Oil, an event led by punk rocker turned olive oil evangelist Fil Buccino. In a room overlooking the Bay of Fundy, Buccino outlines the perils that conspire to degrade oil — heat, oxygen, plastic, sunlight — then leads us in a tasting. The first olive oil is fruity and peppery, while the second leaves me feeling like I’ve coated my mouth with Vaseline. Buccino’s made his point: olive oils are not created equal.
Sticking with the Italian theme, I head to the movies for a drama about a star pastry chef in Rome whose life is in a rut and then catch a short film program called Immigrant Stories, whose highlight is director Anne Hu’s moving short, Lunchbox, about a second-generation Taiwanese American woman’s relationship with her mother and food.
Of course, Devour! screenings come with free snacks — and we’re not talking movie popcorn. Think delicate canapés, rich sirloin meatballs and lively, fruity sorbets.
The afternoon before Chefs & Shorts, I go behind the scenes at the local community college. Here, chefs and culinary program instructors Paul Thimot and Peter Dewar oversee students prepping for the gala. One carefully snips nasturtium leaves from plants picked that morning. Another painstakingly polishes mussel shells, while others prep potato dumplings for a traditional Acadian fricot.
Devour! isn’t only about elevated foods though. On Saturday, locals and visiting festival-goers line up for the New Canadians Street Food Celebration, featuring $5 plates of Nepali momos, British sausage rolls, Filipino skewers and the runaway favourite: Rajasthani raj kachori chaat.
While it bills itself as the world’s largest food and film festival, Devour! feels laid-back. Events happen within a small, walkable area near the main street. Directors and chefs don’t just come for their events and leave; many stay on, joining regular attendees.
I close out my Devour! experience with an Acadian lobster dinner (followed by a dance party). The Wolfville farmers’ market has been transformed into an unpretentious canteen-style eatery, with rows of paper-covered foldout tables and plastic chairs. I sit with West Coast star chefs Julian Bond and Robert Clark. Chen pulls up a chair, and then Thimot, who steamed the 125 lobsters, joins us. The chefs have finished with their presentations, their dinners, their workshops. Now, they eat and talk lobster — how to cook it, why it’s better on the East Coast, their favourite ways of sectioning it. Thimot even convinces Chen to try some of the squishy green tomalley from the cavity of a lobster.
“Acadian cuisine is comfort food,” says Thimot. “It’s like a big warm hug.” And that seems like a fitting note on which to end the festival.
Devour! The Food Film Fest turns 15 this year, and will be celebrating Montreal’s electric food scene! Oct. 20-26, 2025.
This story is from the May/June 2025 Issue
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