The Bermuda Railway Trail National Park

This 29-kilometre paved trail, which is actually a national park, runs the length of the island and is a great introduction to Bermuda by bike or on foot (no cars allowed). The series of trails follows the old Bermuda Railway, known as the “Old Rattle and Shake,” which back in the 1930s and 1940s was how locals got around. Divided parts of the trail are connected by bridges, steps and pathways.

The section I visited begins at Scaur Hill Fort (a destination itself with historic cannons and outstanding views) and winds down through the countryside, offering a sneak peek into people’s luscious, carefully cultivated gardens. I passed fields of cauliflower, shrubs of vibrant oleander, cranberry red hibiscus, and spiny fiddlewood trees. In the early morning, the only other visitors were mourning doves and yellow-bellied kiskadees. If you prefer to look at the ocean and beaches, try the section from Hamilton Parish to Coney Island for spectacular vistas.

Beaches

There are so many lovely beaches to explore on Bermuda, many with secluded coves, hidden caves, cliff jumping and the island’s famous pink sand.

Horseshoe Bay on Bermuda’s south shore in Southampton Parish is a favourite with tourists, especially visitors from cruise ships. You can rent towels, umbrellas, and snorkel equipment, and buy a fish sandwich, cold drink or rum swizzle. If you prefer solitude, keep walking northeast and you will pass through three more lovely beaches, Chaplin Bay, Jobson’s Cove and Warwick Long Bay Beach.

The last was my favourite: pristine, with deep white sand, few visitors and no concessions, just stunning scenery and amazing surf. Another stand-out is Tobacco Bay, famous for volcanic rock formations and located in St. George’s Parish, close to historic St. George.

Water, water everywhere

Seeing Bermuda from the water offers another perspective, a chance to visit one of the territory’s many shipwrecks and see the wealth that isn’t always visible from land. You can charter a boat, rent a catamaran, go for a paddle – or sign up for a jet ski excursion with Blue Water Divers and Water Sports at Robinson’s Marina, near Somerset Bridge in Sandy’s Parish (my choice). Harry Patchett, a retired teacher, explained how to operate a jet ski in about five seconds, advising that going quickly was the safest option. In what Harry only later admitted were some very choppy waters, we circumnavigated Somerset Island and reached HMS Vixen, a ship scuttled in 1896.

We stopped at the shipwreck, retrieved our snorkeling gear from the cargo bin, and had a heavenly swim, chasing schools of bream, chub and grey snapper. The circumnavigation also gave us a chance to pass by Five Star Island and Hawkins Island – both privately-owned hideaways with panoramic views, tranquil private beaches and upscale villas, as well as Sea View, a salmon-coloured cottage that David Bowie rented for years with his wife Iman. “We loved it in Bermuda during our time there. Quiet, respectful, a dreamscape atmosphere,” Bowie later said about his years living there.

Hamilton Princess Hotel & Beach Club

Once you’re done sightseeing, head to the Hamilton Princess Hotel & Beach Club. A majestic property with stunning views of the harbour, the Fairmont-managed hotel remains the epitome of elegance. Dating to 1885, it was named in honour of Princess Louise, a daughter of Queen Victoria, the wife of one of Canada’s governors-general, who wintered in Bermuda. The hotel later served as a centre for British intelligence during the Second World War, and the legendary Canadian spy chief Sir William Stephenson, known as “Intrepid,” lived there for a time. (Stephenson retired in Bermuda and is buried in Pembroke Parish Cemetery).

We hit happy hour at the hotel’s 1609 restaurant, where men dressed in Bermuda shorts and knee socks and women in white dresses sip Dark ‘n’ Stormies: rum and Bermuda stone ginger beer. The hotel’s lobby, with lofty ceilings and a marble floor, vibrated with chatter and fun and I was awed by the stunning private art collection. Robert Indiana’s iconic sculpture LOVE welcomes you at the front entrance, followed by Andy Warhol’s Queen series at reception. A gigantic KAWS sculpture titled At This Time looms over the courtyard. Elsewhere I spotted Banksy’s Girl with Balloon, and Jeff Koons’ Monkey (Blue). The Princess is part legendary hotel and part world-class contemporary art gallery. They even offer tours for guests.