Travel
Nestled in the heart of the UNESCO Sound Clayoquot Biosphere Region, the lodge is the ultimate eco-friendly wilderness resort
A curious seal pops up its head to observe your kayak as you glide through the rich waters of the upper Bedwell Sound. A bald eagle loops lazy circles overhead, finally landing on the top of a towering spruce. Two herons squawk at each other, battling it out for the best fishing spot.
As you paddle toward shore, you take a deep breath of fresh, sea air while already imagining the aroma of the bacon-topped smash burger you intend to order for lunch. Pulling up onshore, you tug off your neoprene booties then sit for a moment to take in the paradise you are privileged to inhabit for three glorious days. Welcome to Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge nestled in the very heart of the UNESCO Sound Clayoquot Biosphere Region on Vancouver Island.
Turn on, tune in, drop the towel… and run before you have time to rethink! The lodge’s guided yoga session and glacial plunge is a must-try. Thirty minutes of stretching and breathing has your nervous system in a state of super-calm. And yet your breath still hitches and, indeed, stops for more than a few seconds as you plow resolutely into the icy waters of the Bedwell Sound. But turn your mind outward to the views and refocus. The glorious trees! The lifting mists! The raindrops on the water! Congratulate yourself for choosing to take the plunge rather than opting for a lazy sleep in. The sauna follows, natch.
Test your mettle on a guided 6-k.m. hike through the Ursus Valley, a scrambly jaunt through majestic 400-year-old old-growth forest, across burbling mountain streams and among shoulder-high ferns. The guide points out edible berries and mushrooms, identifies tree species along the trail, tells tall tales about the ubiquitous banana slugs along the route, and gamely offers to piggyback you across a stream bed that has become a small river in the aftermath of yesterday’s showers.
You’re definitely tempted, but opt for the wet feet knowing you can dry your boots overnight by the gas fire in your tent. Homemade gourmet sandwiches for lunch, eaten sitting on a log beside an icy stream. I dig into mine with gusto — chicken, basil pesto, Havarti, sundried tomatoes and a Dijon-mayo, in case you were wondering. There are a few Aussie cooks in the kitchens, so dessert is a choice of chewie chocolate chip cookies or crispy Anzac biscuits — an Australian favourite that is essentially the Down Under version of an oatmeal cookie. A helicopter pickup makes for a wonderfully hair-raising ride back to the lodge.
Sink into a comfy chair at the Ivanhoe lounge and sip a craft cocktail while watching through floor-to-ceiling windows as bald eagles keep watch over the Bedwell River estuary. On one memorable afternoon, everyone in the lounge gasps in unison as a particularly bold eagle takes a dive at three Canada geese communing in the shallows. There is brief pandemonium and feathers fly before the eagle ultimately decides it might have overreached with this “wild goose chase”. Many of the cocktails are made with local herbs and berries, as well as syrups crafted from foraged flora. The Mountain Berry Spritz mocktail makes a bright pre-dinner sipper.
Bike, paddle, swim, scramble and leap your way through a canyoning adventure. Not for the faint of heart, this high-energy excursion showcases both the raw beauty — and the raw power — of the landscape.
You’re going to get wet; you’re going to get cold. You’re also going to be ravenous when you get back just in time to inhale another one of the chef’s glorious smash burgers (we ask whether the lodge might consider publishing a cookbook so we can score the recipes for his zucchini pickles and secret burger sauce).
Clayoquot Sound’s spectacular wildlife comes into sharp focus, courtesy of an experienced pilot and guide on the lodge’s signature Sights of the Sound boat tour.
We ooh and aah at the black bear ambling along the edge of a seaweed-strewn beach searching for tasty morsels before the tide rolls in, gasp as a grey whale produces a massive spray off the bow, and literally squeal with glee at the ultimate cuteness of a raft of 100-plus sea otters lounging and frolicking in a quiet bay.
Their numbers here are a welcome conservation success story. With the thickest pelts of any mammal, sea otters were once highly coveted by fur traders who hunted them almost to extinction in the 18th century — an estimated global population crashed from upwards of 300,000 to just 2,000 by the early 20th century.
Along the B.C. coast, they disappeared completely, the last one shot in 1929. But in the late 1960s and early 1970s, a total of 89 were relocated from Alaska to the west coast of Vancouver Island. The feisty and resilient otters have never looked back. Recent surveys suggest up to 5,000 now live on the island’s north and west coasts.
Executive Chef Ben Godin rejoices in the region’s bounty, dreaming up delectable dishes that showcase exquisite ingredients foraged from land and sea. Guests can pre-book a private dining tent for the evening and linger with family or new friends over exquisitely prepared salmon, scallops or ling cod paired with the perfect Cowichan Valley wines.
Jump into a single or two-person kayak to experience this breathtaking landscape from the water. Bald eagles and curious seals are almost guaranteed. Birders can expect to see mergansers, kingfishers and herons around almost every corner. A sea wolf would be the ultimate “get,” with just one spotted swimming here in the past five years. Knowledgeable guides parse out fun facts (and snacks) as you explore the craggy shoreline.
Checkout is at noon and the float plane takes guests back to Vancouver in shifts all afternoon, which, if you’re lucky, means a chance to hang out at the Ivanhoe lounge or settle in for a few extra hours in the lodge’s cozy library tent — a woodstove keeps everyone warm as they sink into comfy couches, flip through Vancouver Island-themed nature books and compare favourite moments collected over the course of this extraordinary wilderness retreat.
There is no wrong choice here! Twenty-five luxurious canvas tents are divided into three main options — waterfront deluxe, with sweeping views over the ocean; waterfront ensuite, which open onto the banks of the estuary; and rainforest ensuite. I was in a waterfront ensuite, which proved to be perfect for a birder (who doesn’t want to be lulled to sleep each night and to wake each dawn to the warbling calls of the Swainson’s thrush?).
Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge is open late May through late September and offers three-night packages and week-long stays. Guests arrive and depart on Thursday and Sunday. The all-inclusive rates include accommodation, meals, drinks, outdoor gear and a wide range of guided adventures. Guests can also book tailored special-interest adventures for an extra fee. Private fishing expeditions are a popular “extra,” with the chef preparing the catch for lunch or dinner the next day. The lodge is also known for its helicopter experiences, which include a heli hiking adventure, a heli fly-fishing journey to a remote fishing spot and a heli tour of the spectacular coastal scenery.
Travel
At British Columbia’s Purcell Mountain Lodge, guests can partake in skiing and snowshoeing and then end the day with a well-deserved three-course dinner
Travel
After a long day of hiking or skiing, sit back and relax during happy hour at 2,180 metres elevation
Travel
Tales of epic winter trails, mountain scenes, and delicious eats at this rustic Alberta getaway
Travel
Mount Engadine Lodge is the perfect base for a slew of spectacular mountain trails