It’s just after midnight when the phone in my hotel room rings. Who would call this late? I think to myself. An automated message from Hotel Rangá’s front desk plays: This is your wake up call for the northern lights.

Just moments ago, I was half-asleep — now I’m wide awake.

I pull on the warm layers I’d laid out the night before, slip through the patio door of my hotel room and enter into a different kind of dreamlike world. Overhead, ribbons of green and pink dance across the night sky, folding in on themselves like an electric ballet. As other guests arrive outside, I hardly notice, as silence has fallen on the open, frozen landscape, while clusters of visitors stand like statues, staring up at the spectacle in awe. 

This is exactly the experience one might expect when staying at Hotel Rangá, a luxury resort set amid the open landscapes of South Iceland. Blending rustic charm with warm hospitality, this one-of-a-kind accommodation serves as a comfortable home base for Icelandic adventures, allowing travellers to explore a land shaped by the elements.

Fire — Lava, volcanoes, and Iceland’s fiery heart

Iceland is often described as the land of fire and ice — a phrase that risks cliché until you stand within its landscapes. Sitting on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates pull apart, the island sits atop a restless seam of the Earth’s crust. Here, magma rises to the surface, making Iceland the world’s most volcanically active island nation. Eruptions occur, on average, every three to five years, continually reshaping the landscape. 

From the doorstep of Hotel Rangá, that volatility feels close at hand. On the horizon stands Hekla, one of Iceland’s most iconic and active volcanoes.

For those curious about molten rock without having to chase an eruption, Lava Show Iceland in Vík (Iceland’s southernmost village) provides a fascinating glimpse into the island’s volcanic energy. Led by a knowledgeable presenter, the experience features molten lava poured in real time,  accompanied by explanations of the science and history behind Iceland’s volcanoes. Visitors are even invited to handle the freshly cooled lava as it solidifies, a rare opportunity to connect with the processes that build the island.

Beyond Vík, Iceland’s geothermal energy continues to shape the landscape in dramatic ways. Along the Golden Circle, Iceland’s most famous tourist route, iconic volcanic and geothermal features are on display: Geysers such as Strokkur erupt reliably every few minutes, sending jets of boiling water and steam skyward, while the legendary Great Geysir, though mostly dormant, hints at the power that gave geysers their name. On the South Coast, at Reynisfjara, black sand beaches meet the white churn of the North Atlantic, where towering basalt columns rise like frozen pillars of stone, a striking reminder of Iceland’s volcanic past.

Water — Ice and time

Volcanoes lay the foundations of Iceland’s landscapes, but it is water,  in all its forms,  that shapes them. Braided glacial rivers cut through valleys, waterfalls spill from ancient cliffs, and glaciers grind across the land, carving and crushing the rock beneath their immense weight.

About an hour’s drive east of Hotel Rangá lies Katla, a powerful volcano buried beneath a vast glacial ice cap that hides both its presence and its power. In 1918, Katla erupted, rapidly melting the glacier above it and unleashing a flood with a peak flow rate of more than 300,000 cubic metres per second, greater than the combined average discharge of the world’s four largest rivers. The scale of that force is difficult to grasp from a distance. To truly understand it, you have to get closer — or better yet, step inside the glacier itself.

With Southcoast Adventure, an experienced local guide leads the way off the beaten path inside a Super Jeep specially outfitted for the region’s rugged terrain. The drive alone is an adventure, crossing black sand plains and glacial rivers before reaching the base of the ice cap. Once there, visitors step out onto the snow, donning ice cleats and a helmet, following the guide towards the hidden cave. Inside, layers of compressed ice reveal centuries of history in vivid shades of blue, grey, and white. A humbling reminder that water is not just a feature of the landscape, but its most powerful architect.

After a day on the glacier, a visit to the newly opened Laugarás Lagoon offers both warmth and rest. Here, geothermal water heated deep underground fills a series of calm, open-air pools beside the Hvíta River. Surrounded by farmland and open skies, the lagoon offers a quieter setting than many of Iceland’s larger bathing sites. Immersed in naturally warm, mineral-rich water, the contrast with the icy environments of the South Coast is immediate, highlighting how closely daily life in Iceland remains tied to the same geological forces that shape its landscapes. After a soak, guests can enjoy a meal at the lagoon’s restaurant, where locally sourced seasonal vegetables, greenhouse-grown herbs, and regional meat, such as locally-sourced lamb and fish, come together to showcase the region’s freshest flavours.

Air — Light and dancing skies

In winter, Iceland trades its famous midnight sun for long nights under a sky alive with cosmic possibilities. Above Hotel Rangá, the sky becomes its own theatre: when auroras flare, the sky transforms into a luminous spectacle. Pressing the “Aurora Wake-Up Call” button ensures guests won’t miss the show — an automated call alerts when the lights are on display. 

On clear nights, the hotel observatory opens its roof, offering a chance to gaze into the universe through high-powered telescopes under the guidance of a resident astronomer. After a night under the cosmos or a long day of adventure, the geothermal hot tubs just outside the rooms offer a serene place to watch the sunrise or sunset. 

Even before landing, Iceland’s skies make themselves known. From a Saga Premium window seat aboard Icelandair, I had a front-row view of the aurora dancing across the night sky, the green lights flickering over the clouds. With the comforts of the flight to settle in, I could simply sit back and take it all in — a stunning introduction to the magic awaiting on the ground.

Earth  — In constant motion

On solid ground, travellers will find themselves in a seemingly endless array of vistas. Though Iceland’s terrain feels ancient, much of it is surprisingly young. As a glacial and volcanic hotspot, the land is constantly being reshaped: glaciers grind and melt, while volcanic activity pushes hot magma to the surface, creating entirely new terrain altogether. With Southcoast Adventures, this energy is felt firsthand.

On the highland buggy tour through Thórsmörk, black sand whips into the air as the rugged landscape unfolds in muted tones of charcoal, moss, and icy white. Dramatic ridges, glacial rivers, and volcanic formations pass by at every turn. It’s a thrilling way to experience Iceland’s dynamic terrain up close, where every bend in the trail offers a fresh glimpse of Iceland’s raw beauty.

Across the countryside, Icelandic horses roam freely, and hardy sheep graze on volcanic soil — living reminders of how humans and animals alike have adapted to the island’s rugged terrain over centuries.

For a more subterranean perspective, Hotel Rangá offers a private Viking-style Cave Dinner at the nearby Caves of Hella. These ancient caves, with evidence of early Icelanders once using them as shelters, have long held a sense of mystery. Guests dine by candlelight on an authentic three-course Icelandic feast prepared by the hotel’s chefs. Featuring regional ingredients including gravlax, slow-braised lamb shank, and skyr for dessert, combining both traditional and modern Nordic cooking. Staying true to the Viking theme, the meal is eaten with just a spoon, and traditional Icelandic lopapeysas (traditional wool sweaters) are available for the evening. In the glow of candlelight and to the sound of live music, the evening becomes an immersive step back into Iceland’s past.