Located outside of 70 Mile House in British Columbia’s Cariboo region, Flying U has access to more than 24 thousand hectares of forest, meadow and grassland that their stable of 100 horses call home. Upon arrival, riding guests are paired with the same four-legged partner for the duration of their stay, matched to ability, temperament and experience. All-inclusive packages include three meals, all activities, snacks and two guided horse rides a day (or one full-day ride). 

In a modern world crushed under the weight of liability insurance, guests have a somewhat unique opportunity to trot, canter and gallop – at our own risk, of course. 

After trail riding to the Allenby Pass in Banff, I’ve spent my hours in the saddle, but joining me is my young son Galileo, whose previous equine experience is a pony ride on his sixth birthday.

The “town” of Flying U houses guests in simple century-old cabins or in one of five private lodges, gathering for communal meals with the time-honoured ring of the meal bell. In the summer months, the population increases to about 150 people, who make good use of the museum, general store and other amenities. The main street looks and feels like the setting for a cowboy movie, complete with a saloon, a stable, an old theatre, and a jail cell.

With limited satellite wifi, city slickers need to recalibrate to the different pace. Perhaps play a game of Cribbage on the giant board in the main lodge, with spent rifle shells as pegs. Read a book, feed the horses, go kayaking on the lake, play horseshoes, or pony up for a craft beer in the Longhorn Saloon. As for the kids, the family-friendly Flying U proudly embodies the trend of “free-range parenting”: cut the kids loose to socialize at the ping pong table, play field games, brush horses, sing to the pigs, play cards, or chase critters. Parents (and grandparents) feel a nostalgic pang for their own rich, outdoor, and device-free childhood.

I’m struck by how many newcomers are old hands.

“My name is Cindy, I’m from North Vancouver, and this is my 8th year at the Flying U.”
“My name is John, I’m from Victoria, and this is my 10th year at the ranch.”
“My name is Chris, I’m from Ottawa, and this is my 6th year here.”
“My name is Robin, I’m from Vancouver, and this is my first time at the Flying U.”

At this, the dining room claps, hoots and applauds. Loyal guests fell under the spell of the place long ago, and they know my turn is next.

Two musicians known as the Kens are playing country ditties on their guitars around the big open fire pit. Galileo is playing Manhunt with his new friends, or whatever they call “tag” these days. I tally up what we experienced on our first day in the Cariboo:

Beyond the riding, there’s clearly a lot to keep guests entertained. We could happily spend the day on the dock, lounging in the Muskoka chairs and diving into the warm, silky waters of Green Lake. 

Each afternoon, the Flying U’s owner, John Lovelace, takes guests out on a speedboat ride, and then happily thrills the kids with tube rides in the lake. Lovelace is the former host of the long-running TV series Wings over Canada, a bush pilot/realtor/granddad from Ontario who discovered the Flying U when it was up for sale 10 years ago. I ask him why he took over the ranch.

“It’s not for income,” he chuckles. “The last thing you would do is buy a ranch for money. It’s an amazing lifestyle, and I want to preserve the heritage, to keep it in good shape for the next custodian. We have guests who have been coming here for 25 years, we’re part of their family.”