People & Culture
From Jeju to Tofino: Korean chef adds new flavours to Vancouver Island — with a little help from his mother
A mother-son duo’s culinary journey from Korea to Canada’s West Coast
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There is something fishy about the spas abroad, and it’s not just the spa water. From Belgium to Bangkok, and Singapore to Seoul, “doctor fish” are nibbling their way into wellness routines, offering travellers a peculiar pedicure, and I needed to investigate.
Inside a South Korean waterpark, flush with a variety of steam rooms, pools and saunas, I made an appointment to learn more about the fishy feast that will supposedly leave my skin feeling smoother than ever.
Upon arrival, a doctor eagerly awaited me, joined by dozens of similarly qualified “associates.” I was told to put my tired traveller feet in the water and let the doctors go to work.
Garra rufa, also known as nibble fish, doctor fish or kanga fish, is a small species of cyprinid native to a wide range of freshwater habitats in Western Asia and natural springs in Türkiye. But unlike other freshwater fish, garra ruffa have an unusual appetite for dead human skin, foot calluses and corns. Unlike piranhas, which have trouble distinguishing between disposable skin cells and essential body parts, these doctor fish are harmless, and bathers have long enjoyed the therapeutic benefits and tickling sensation.
While doctor fish cannot cure skin conditions like psoriasis, they are known to relieve some symptoms by munching on flaky, dead skin cells, leaving one’s feet soft and shiny. Since I’ve consumed enough fish in my time, I think it’s time to give something back to a species that has given me so much.
Two doctor fish pools are located in Seoul’s SeaLaLa, one of many popular spas and waterparks found throughout South Korea. In one modest pool, I see the garra rufa swimming, and in another, a slightly larger species of fish called the chin chin. Although both will nibble away at your feet, chin chin (or kissing fish) tuck into your toes without actually removing skin cells. Considering they lock their lips all day onto the feet of strangers, some experts believe chin chin might actually spread skin diseases instead. Naturally, I decided to approach the garra rufa pond first. Sitting down on the edge of the pool, I cautiously dip my feet in the cool water and anxiously await my consultation.
It doesn’t take long for an initial approach by one bold fish, a medical director who takes a light nibble on my big toe. He must like what he tastes, because within seconds, dozens more gather around my heel, toe and sole, selecting their spot the way we might select a cut of steak. The sensation feels like one-third pins and needles, one-third foot tickle and one-third “yikes, I’m being eaten by tiny fish.”
It’s important to remain still for the fish to do their job, as nobody likes dinner moving around mid-course. Five memorable minutes later, my time is up. My feet are refreshed, free of excess dead skin, bacteria and any itchy conditions I probably picked up in the locker room.
Chin chin in the other pool may not be medically qualified, but this small species of tilapia has teeth. A dozen quickly approach my feet like hungry bandits, and I squirm as they attack my feet with impressive gusto. With sharper and more ticklish bites, these guys lack the calming poolside manner of their colleagues, the garra ruffa. Having once known a medical professional named Doctor Fish, I try to distract myself by imagining the prospect of an actual Doctor Fish treating patients with doctor fish. The mental wormhole doesn’t work, and the prickly biters send me packing after a few squirmy minutes.
Beyond Seoul, I’ve seen doctor fish swimming in small tanks at Asian night markets in countries like Thailand and Cambodia, eager to dine on any curious foot traffic. But it’s not as simple as filling a bathtub with fish to start your own DIY fish spa. Water temperatures and the fish’s diet must be ideal before a garra rafa will want to feed on your scales. Several countries, including Türkiye, have passed laws protecting the garra rufa from commercial exploitation, as well as prospective patients from unhygienic pools. That said, both real and fake doctor fish are being put to work by unscrupulous spa owners around the world, so it’s best to ask about the species and tank conditions before dipping your tootsies. As for me, I leave SeaLaLa with glistening, refreshed feet and a new appreciation for a quirky fish species devoted to aquatic podiatry.
IF YOU GO: SeaLaLa is one of the more popular waterparks in Seoul, located near the Mullae subway station. Doctor fish pools are included in your admission, which costs approximately $ 25 CAD per person, excluding towel rentals. Nearby is Time Square, one of the largest shopping malls in South Korea.
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