Travel
Cunard postcard: Queen Anne sets sail
Unveiling a new era of luxury cruising — inspired by the past but built for the future
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For 10 days in June, my wife Dee and I sailed the Inside Passage of coastal British Columbia and Alaska, travelling on Cunard’s classic ship, Queen Elizabeth, as representatives and Fellows of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society.
As a naturalist, my work typically focuses on wildlife, and during this excursion, our wild inhabitants were those of the Pacific Northwest coast. During our 10 days aboard Queen Elizabeth, I conducted two presentations, one on West Coast bears and another on coastal expeditions by foot, kayak, and sailboat.
One of the real pleasures of working on a ship like Queen Elizabeth is the opportunity to meet other professionals in the field. Whale researcher Dr. Rachael Cartwright was the head naturalist on this voyage. Her research takes her on annual winter migrations to the Hawaiian Islands, where she focuses on the behavioural ecology of humpback whales.
Remember, the humpback whales along Canada’s coast head to Hawaii to mate and give birth each winter, so the whales we saw on this cruise were the same whales Cartwright studies in Hawaii. Basically, I was on an informal whale course, learning from the best.
It didn’t take long before we spotted our first humpbacks. We were barely outside Vancouver; the sun was low in the west, and the whales’ blows were backlit and easy to spot.
Sighting whales from the platform of a large ship can be good, but you can’t beat the intimate proximity that a smaller boat allows. When Queen Elizabeth stopped in Juneau, Alaska, we booked a seven-metre, 20-passenger whale-watching excursion for a day.
Our most significant sighting was observing a mother and her new calf. The baby repeatedly slid up on its mother’s back, head entirely out of the water, doing what I would interpret as expending excited juvenile energy. We also witnessed the baby perform a complete breach several times. There is nothing more spectacular in nature than a breaching whale!
The whale’s body rockets vertically, almost entirely out of the water. Adult humpback whales weigh a ton of body weight for every linear foot, so a 45-foot-long whale means 45 tons of breaching.
Whale watchers have been asking why whales breach for as long as people have been watching whales. Theories have ranged from the whales dislodging ectoparasites to showing off to other whales or simply having fun.
This is why I find joy in travelling with individuals like Cartwright. Her latest research provides an excellent explanation as to why whales, especially youngsters, breach so often (Listen to Cartwright explain her latest theory in the CBC radio segment below)
When we stopped for a day in the small town of Sitka, Alaska, we joined another small boat tour, hoping to get close enough to some sea otters to observe them. They are generally considered ‘abundant’ in the waters around Sitka, and within the first 30 minutes of leaving the harbour, we found a group of 22 adults with at least 15 pups.
They were rafting in a thick kelp bed, floating like corks. Moms had their babies safely resting on their bellies as they floated belly-side up. It looked like a social kindergarten-care group! We saw lots of face rubbing and grooming of their babies.
We stayed a fair distance away, as our guides didn’t want to spook them, but we were close enough to see them well with binoculars.
Sea otters are considered keystone species. Without them, there is no predation on sea urchins, which eat the giant kelp, so this important plant species vanishes. Ultimately, fisheries decline. Because the otters were ruthlessly hunted to near extinction in the past, their return is very exciting, both from an ecological and aesthetic perspective.
Now, the estimated population is 150,000 in Alaska, 2,000 in California, and 2,500 in Canada, and increasing by 17 per cent a year!
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