Consumers might be surprised by the equivalent cost of de-alcoholized drinks, but it’s actually more expensive to produce a good low or alcohol-free wine, spirit or beer. The traditional product undergoes an extra vacuum or steam distillation process, applying heat to carefully burn off the alcohol, leaving complex, familiar tastes behind. Botanicals and natural flavouring can also be added, as in the case of gin, whisky or tequila. I sample a golden hued tequila that uses capsicum to substitute that familiar burn on the finish. We try two new liqueur products from the U.K. that are hard to pin down: sugar-free, vegan, and with no artificial flavours, the tropical notes beg to be mixed into a “gin” and tonic. Mocktails can be a whole lot more interesting than Shirley Temples and virgin Caesars.

Angela cracks open a few ready-mixed cans of gin and tonic, margaritas, and whiskey colas, all of which do a capable job of mimicking the real thing. Sipping slowly, I’m left with the distinct impression I’m drinking booze, not soda.

“It’s funny, but it’s often the whisky-cola that turns the curious into believers,” says Angela, who hosts weekend tastings at her store. “Some people have a lot of resistance, but things have changed so much. It’s no longer fake wine and sour juice. We’re offering a wide variety of quality products in an exclusively dedicated non-alcohol establishment, not a just a section in the back of a grocery store or variety store. We wanted to honour and spotlight the industry and these incredible products.”

As more bars and restaurants expand their low or non-alcoholic menus to accommodate a growing clientele, Canadian entrepreneurs and beverage consumers are stepping up to the plate. There’s Nova Scotia’s Lake City Cider, the Libra line from Prince Edward Island’s Upstreet Brewing, Alberta’s One for the Road Brewing, Stratford, Ont.’s Sobrii gin. You’ll find quality mixers and spirits from HP Juniper and Atypique in Quebec, Toronto’s ABOVE, Wild Folk in Calgary, the list goes on.  There are extensive online marketplaces like Sansorium, retail stores like Bevees in Port Coquitlam, B.C. and Sobr Market in Winnipeg, and, for the curious, an excellent online resource called Some Good Clean Fun. Investors are taking note too: Partake Brewery and others have raised significant capital from Canadian and international investors.  Meanwhile, multinational alcohol giant Diageo acquired Seedlip, a leading U.K.-based dealcoholized spirit brand, and has launched non-alcoholic versions of Guinness and Tanqueray gin. Keurig Dr Pepper acquired Quebec’s Atypique, and Costco Canada are stocking flats of Ole mocktails.