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The rare native plants of Newfoundland’s barrens  

Three plants unique to the limestone barrens of western Newfoundland thrive on the moon-like landscape of an ancient tropical sea

  • Published Apr 11, 2025
  • Updated Apr 15
  • 796 words
  • 4 minutes
Powerful North Atlantic waves carve out circular tidal pools in the limestone at Burnt Cape Ecological Reserve.
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It’s a wonder any life can thrive here on the grey swath of windswept stones near Sandy Cove, northwestern Newfoundland. And yet, shooting up between cracks and crevices are three endemic plants found nowhere else on Earth: Long’s braya, barrens willow and Fernald’s braya. Their hardiness, says plant ecologist Luise Hermanutz, is that of “a true Newfoundlander.” 

Map: Chris Brackley/Can Geo. Data: courtesy Michael Burzynski
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“The adaptability of this little plant to such a harsh environment and infertile soil is nothing short of astonishing,” says Hermanutz of Long’s braya.

These ground-hugging plants root amid the rockery — barrens willow sprawls over the surface in a twiggy mat, while the white-purple flowers of the braya sit atop purplish stems rising a few centimetres from their bushy leaves. The trio are not just specialists in surviving the subarctic climate; they are “calcicoles,” meaning they thrive in the lime-rich soils of the barrens.

To understand how these plants came to grow here requires looking back millions of years to when a tropical sea south of the equator teemed with life. The shells of those ancient marine creatures accumulated on the sea floor, hardening into limestone. Thrust upwards by a northward-shifting tectonic plate, the limestone reared its head thousands of kilometres away in the northwest Atlantic. Then, between two million and 15,000 years ago, glaciers and marine erosion carved these lands into the limestone barrens. Up close, the rock looks like weathered elephant skin. 

Although this underlying geology makes up much of the west coast of Newfoundland — stretching from the Port au Port Peninsula in the south to the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula and parts of southern Labrador — only about 40 square kilometres of the barrens are openly visible. Here, strong onshore winds limit soil accumulation, slowing the growth of vegetation that covers the inland limestone.

But life persists: more than 100 rare plant species grow in this highly sensitive habitat, which is now protected by four ecological reserves: Table Point, Sandy Cove, Watts Point and Burnt Cape. Many grow nowhere else on the island, except for the few patches of exposed barrens along the northwestern coast. Long’s braya, barrens willow and Fernald’s braya, in particular, grow within just six kilometres of the coastline.

Replanted roseroot clings to the thin soil at the Sandy Cove barren.
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“The landscape might look stable and stationary, but it is actually highly dynamic,” says conservation manager Donnell Gasbarrini of the Wilder Institute, which works to protect and restore this fragile habitat. “Because of the lack of soil accumulation, plants here are highly vulnerable. Rocks actually move and shift around by the forces of nature, which are invisible but always at work.”

Other forces are at work too: human disturbance poses the greatest threat to the endemic plants. Since 2023, Gasbarrini has worked with community-based conservation organizations, local communities and students to clean up and restore a part of the barrens near Sandy Cove that was used as an unofficial dump after a limestone quarry there closed in 1975. The rock crusher and garbage were removed in 2011, but the damage had been done.

As well as human garbage, the piles of soil and rock from the quarrying era decomposed, creating nutrient-rich soil. While ideal for gardening, rich soil is detrimental to limestone barrens specialists and attracts invasive plants. When the community learned that Long’s braya still had a toehold near the old dumping site, they were galvanized to act.

“The plants cannot be protected on their own. The only way to preserve them for the future is to protect their habitat,” says botanist Michael Burzynski. A key member of the Limestone Barrens Species at Risk Recovery Team for almost 25 years, Burzynski has been taking cuttings and collecting seeds from the rare native plants of the barrens and propagating them for replanting.

 

Near Sandy Cove, a patch of crow-berry is creeping across the earth next to a piece of rock encircled with a labelled orange ribbon. Other pops of colour scattered across the gravelly landscape indicate different species Hermanutz and team replanted in summer 2024 after a portion of the Sandy Cove barren had been cleaned up. The remaining gravel was reshaped to mimic the original marine terraces that had been cut by the ocean. Any rescued plants were used to re-establish more native vegetation on the restored barren.

The moon-like landscape at Burnt Cape, at the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula, is perhaps the most surreal of all the limestone barrens. It feels like the end of the Earth. Large boulders are scattered erratically along winding trails. I crouch down next to one of them and notice some roseroot and avens that managed to find shelter from the wind to put down roots. This is what clinging on for dear life looks like.

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This story is from the March/April 2025 Issue

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