Travel

Expanding horizons on the Amalfi Coast

A week of action-packed family adventure along one of Europe’s most beautiful coastlines

  • Nov 07, 2024
  • 1,613 words
  • 7 minutes
Positano can get crowded, but there's always room for a decent view. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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Horizons are abundant on the mountainous Amalfi Coast in southern Italy where the sea meets the sky along narrow, serpentine roads cutting across steep limestone cliffs. This is, however, assuming you are observing the view and not the cars, scooters and buses that somehow narrowly miss colliding at every tight bend. But there’s more to a horizon than a gorgeous view, and these are the horizons many travellers are drawn to most. I’ve brought my 11-year-old daughter on our first Exodus Family Adventure, hoping to expand our cultural, social, historical and culinary horizons too.

View of the horizon from the Path of the Gods. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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The Amalfi Coast is one of the most popular destinations in southern Europe, and Exodus Adventure Travels offers multiple, week-long group itineraries that appeal to different interests. An Amalfi Highlights tour is perfect for those who want to maximize their time in the region, while a Walking the Amalfi Coast trip will appeal to more active travellers seeking time on the trails. Curated Family Adventures are designed to keep kids and parents busy; lighter on the romance and mileage, but with more time for hands-on activities, pool time, and of course, gelato.

Any successful group trip depends on the quality of your company: the tour operator, your guides, and your fellow guests. Exodus, a partner of Canadian Geographic Adventures, is known to get it right across all fronts. Flying into Naples, we connect with several groups for an hour-long transit to our host hotel in Bomerano, a village in the mountain municipality of Agerola. In a region that receives about five million visitors per year, Bomerano will be our quiet, uncrowded base for a week of discovery. It starts with the first of many memorable Italian meals, a friendly local guide, and a UK couple with a daughter as precocious and curious as my own. The girls gel within minutes, and wander off giggling before we finish dessert.

Positano looks like a mischievous Roman god who has haphazardly stacked Lego bricks on a cliff, all with a view of the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. The eye-catching village is accessed via road, or more impressively, on a ferry from the nearby town of Amalfi. We board a packed vessel for the 25-minute boat ride, seated on the upper deck to take in dazzling views of villages, vineyards, ruins and orchards cut into cliffside terraces over millennia.

With its romantic terraced structures and ocean views, Positano has become one of the most popular spots in southern Europe. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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On arrival, Postino’s busy fall tourism season is in full swing. Influencers line up at Instagram-ready viewpoints, armed with selfie sticks and flashing pouty lips for their followers. Social media attention has brought thick crowds to dreamy Positano, not that it matters to the kids, who follow their noses along a maze of narrow paths, admiring painted ceramics and captivating sculptures in a gallery called Liquid Art. They chuckle at the dinky, toy-like Fiats cars that are small enough to squeeze through narrow roads and crowds. With cars, bikes and pedestrians sharing the pathways, we still have to constantly remind them to hug the walls and walk in single file.

The Amalfi Coast is Italy’s land of lemons. The bright fruit adorns hand-painted tiles, souvenirs, paintings and dresses, while the fragrance of citrus permeates the market stalls and outdoor cafes. It’s beautiful and romantic, but younger kids will fall in love with the smooth pebble beaches, swims in the warm sea, and devouring tart sorbets served in hollow lemons. Returning by ferry to Amalfi, we catch the twisty, 45-minute shuttle up the mountain to Bomerano, making sure all car-sick-prone kids and adults are seated up front. Exodus effectively charters the family-owned and run Hotel Due Torri for all its groups, and the spotless hotel/restaurant is warm and welcoming. The secret to travelling with young kids is to make sure there’s a swimming pool, and the Due Torri has a great one – warm, deep, and inviting.

Learning to cook Italian dishes in the kitchen of the Hotel Due Torri. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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Learning about the local art of tile painting, depicting the region's famous lemons. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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It also has an excellent kitchen preparing fresh pizzas, pasta and authentic Italian dishes. My daughter quickly agrees with my long-held conviction that everything just tastes better in Italy. San Marino tomatoes and herbs are richer, cheeses and breads are lighter, and the pasta is freshly made. In Italy, love and appreciation for good food is an ingredient in every recipe. The kids get a taste of this in the kitchen, under the instruction of Due Torri’s owner-chef Giovanni Acampora. Aproned and hatted, the kids prepare fresh ricotta-stuffed paccheri, baking the tubed pasta with a rich marinara sauce, followed by a traditional cheese appetizer and a decadent tiramisu. The following evening, they receive hands-on instruction in the art of traditional Napoli pizza making, sliding their margherita pizzas into the chestnut wood-fired oven. Parents have no issue finishing up any leftovers at the table.

Amalfi's stunning cathedral dates back to the 9th and 10th centuries. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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Returning to Amalfi, we explore the impressive Amalfi Cathedral, which dates back to the 10th century. It is just one of many sites recalling Amalfi’s celebrated past when the Duchy of Amalfi was a wealthy independent state alongside Venice, Pisa and Genoa. We stroll Via dei Mercanti, the main pathway, wondering how vehicles still make their way up and down the hill without flattening the toes of wall-hugging tourists. The kids pick their favourite tiny statues among the crowded nativity scene in De Cape ‘e Ciucci, a fountain that has provided travellers with fresh drinking water since the 18th century. Before they tuck into more gelato, we take sea kayaks around the coast to Atrani, the smallest municipality in Italy, and the location for films like The Talented Mr Ripley and Denzel Washington’s Equalizer 3. After returning the kayaks, we stroll the pedestrian tunnel through the mountain back to Atrani to find another perfect gelato and let the kids build a pebble castle on the beach. Kayaks, sunshine, sea-glass treasures and ice cream make for a kid paradise.

De Cape ‘e Ciucci is a nativity fountain that has provided travellers with fresh water since the 18th century. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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Yes kids, it's a real car. Small Fiats are ideal for twisty, narrow roads. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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Worthy of its illustrious name, the seven-kilometre-long Path of the Gods is a must-do walking trail between Bomerano and Positano, sliced into the mountain as it crosses vineyards, caves, olive groves, terraces and various ruins. At 630 metres above sea level, the path offers sensational views of the horizon, with island views of the Sirens and Capri in the distance. Undulating and hilly, it’s a little ambitious to do the full path with kids, but we took in ample scenic highlights with an out-and-back hike to the junction. The volcano gods have plenty to say in this region too.

Inside the crater of the infamous Vesuvius volcano. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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Mount Vesuvius looms over Naples, located just nine kilometres east of the city. The active volcano is best known for wiping out Pompeii in 79CE, burying the sprawling Roman town in ash and rubble, and subsequently protecting it from centuries of conquering armies and looters. Hiking up to Vesuvius’s crater along the dark ash of the Il Gran Cono path is heavy on the coastal views, and geology lessons too. Vesuvius tends to erupt every 50 years, although the real threat to Naples is a massive active caldera that sits beneath the city called Campi Flegrei. Understandably, kids need reassurance that the volcano is not about to erupt and ruin their holiday.

From the volcano, we head into Naples to explore to ruins of its famous victim, Pompeii. One can spend days wandering about this sprawling excavated town, but we only had a few hours to take in highlight murals, amphitheatre, villas, baths and forums. As a child, I was fascinated with photos of the preserved casts of Pompeii victims, forever frozen in their death pose by the falling ash. We see 13 such statues housed behind glass in the Garden of the Fugitives, leaving a powerful if morbid impression on all ages.

Learning to make paper according to 16th-century methods inside Amalfi's Paper Museum. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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Atrani is the smallest municipality in Italy and a location for several Hollywood movies. (Photo: Robin Esrock)
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History is more hands-on in Amalfi’s Paper Museum, where we learn how paper was created in the 16th century from breaking up old rags. We watch noisy, ancient water-powered machines at work, and scoop cloth fragments onto grates to be dried into parchment. Fortunately, the rags are no longer broken down in a mixture of human and animal urine. After cheap street pizza (that tastes better than any pizza back home), we catch a boat to the Grotta dello Smeraldo, a natural marvel only discovered in 1932. With light squeaking underwater through the cave walls, emerald waters glow among the stalactites and stalagmites. Then we’re off to a mozzarella-making demonstration, and more gelato, the hotel pool, a final dinner of exquisite Italian cuisine, and for hardworking parents, a glass or two of the region’s famed limoncello. 

Expanding every horizon, it’s been a busy, bucket list week for the kids, and elated kids always result in elated parents. Mamma Mia, when the right combination of people, guide, tour operator, accommodation and destination come together, pack your bags and prepare for the travel magic.

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