Slipping into bathing suits and our luggage into dry bags, an hour-long descent across grade one to three rapids to reach Rios Lodge awaits us. No road access exists, although guests and staff can also hike through the jungle. Departures from the lodge take on more challenging grade four to five rapids, which is why guests under 12 years old leave on foot. Everything from building supplies and appliances to meals and furniture floats in by raft, a fitting form of transportation for a sustainable eco-lodge that generates hydroelectric and solar power and has unlimited clean water. We’re floating into the rapids within seconds, and my daughter screams delightfully. In Costa Rica, the common expression is ‘pura vida!’ which roughly translates as “this is living!” Our experienced and supremely knowledgeable guide, Jorge Calderòn, just smiles as if to say: “Honey, just wait what we have in store.”

Roberto Gallo was paddling with his father on the Pacuare before he could walk. Before a fresh breakfast of tropical fruit and made-to-order eggs this morning, he takes us into the trees. Rios Lodge installed eight thrilling ziplines across the river, part of a push to add more activities for guests to stay longer. Roberto hoists my daughter onto a 280-metre-long line, and she fearlessly takes off with a high-pitched howl of approval. Showing no fear, I’m immensely proud of her spirited attitude. Jorge is delighted with her curiosity for the large spiders, tiny frogs, the soaring jungle vines, and the crackling jungle birds. He shows her the industrious leaf ants carrying their loads and the terrifying bullet ants with the worst sting in the insect kingdom. A born teacher with a wry sense of humour, Jorge demonstrates how hydroponic plants repel water, how flowers trick insects to assist with pollination, and how bats shelter beneath their leafy tents. My daughter is endlessly fascinated with this hands-on biology field trip. Still, she’s up for the action, from tubing down the river to scrambling up a beautiful canyon dotted with endless emerald pools.