OneCity
THREE VENUES
Yellowknife
By Laurie Sarkadi
‘Colder, farther, darker’ could be Yellowknife’s winter motto. Founded on
gold and now fuelled by diamonds, the capital of the Northwest Territories brims with shinny
rinks, snowshoe and crosscountry ski trails — and lots and lots of ravens.
1. ADVENTURE: The white open highway
Yellowknife marks the end of the road heading north from Alberta, except between
February and April, when a 600-kilometre ice road is forged across lakes and wetlands
to supply mines in the Barren Lands. Thanks to the popular reality television series “Ice
Road Truckers,” the call of the white open highway is growing. The diamond mines that
own and operate the road would prefer to gate it, but since it’s on crown land and
water,
the road is open to the public. Be aware that you’ll be driving on metre-thick ice
amid
massive tractor-trailer convoys hauling fuel, cement and explosives. There are no pit stops.
Four-wheel-drive vehicles are highly recommended, along with winter clothing, boots
and survival gear for -40°C temperatures. Or you can book a ride with True North
Safaris, which takes passengers 460 kilometres up the road to a diamond mine. The threeday
drive in a crew cab includes two nights at Mackay Lake Lodge and allows for CB radio
banter with truckers and a visit to their otherwise off-limits Lac de Gras truck stop. Cost
is $1,595 per person. Minimum two people.
www.truenorthsafaris.com
2. FAMILY: Getting along on doggies
Yellowknife remains a sled dog city at heart, the centuries-old winter mode of transportation
of local Dene. Today’s mushers run recreational as well as competitive dog teams,
with races held here each year. Many companies offer sled dog rides across Great Slave
Lake and around the city, but families may want to escape to Aurora Village, where there
are additional outdoor activities for the kids. Located 30 minutes outside Yellowknife,
the village has an aboriginal interpretive display inside one of seven giant tipis, along
with a kennel and about 70 dogs on-site. Visitors can pet puppies (when available) and
watch the dogs’ frenzied excitement while being harnessed. Traditional canvas-sided
sleds
fit up to four passengers for a 15-to-20-minute trip described as a roller-coaster ride on
hilly, wooded trails. The $90-per-person afternoon package ($60 for children) also
includes unlimited thrills riding inner tubes down a three-storey ice slide, roasting marshmallows
by a campfire, hot drinks inside a warm tipi and return transportation from
Yellowknife. For $60 more, visitors can take a brief mushing lesson and drive a dog team
themselves.
www.auroravillage.com
3. BUSINESS: Revving up the nightlife
As a government centre and hub of a red-hot economy, Yellowknife hosts legions of business
travellers. Yet once the briefcase closes, there hasn’t historically been much to offer
except going to the bars. Yellowknife Outdoor Adventures began aurora-viewing snowmobile trips
last year to help fill that void and show the business traveller a different kind of nightlife.
For $155 per person ($205 if you’re riding solo), the trip includes a 35-minute snowmobile
ride through boreal forest trails and onto Great Slave Lake to a cabin heated by a wood stove.
Chances are, you’ll see green and pink curtains of aurora light up the sky. And if not,
you can hang out at the cabin, sipping hot drinks and enjoying some snacks and wait until they
do. About 7,000 Japanese tourists visit the city each winter specifically to experience this
light show.
(867) 444-8320; e-mail: ykoutadv@yahoo.ca
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